Stalls at idle,95 turbo isuzu pickup
 

I have built my own turbo setup for my 95 Isuzu pickup and it stalls when you let off the gas(nuetral or with clutch in). It will start right back up, no smoke or anything else.

The setup is a t25 and intercooler from a Saab,log manifold and all factory sensors hooked up. No check engine light.I have only driven about 1 mile and only seem to be making 4psi tops. When you first start the truck and the idle is higher it is fine. Truck ran great before the turbo install and runs good still. No leaks of any kind I can find. Factory ecm, no chip, fmu.This is my first turbo anything but I dont have any idea what would cause the stalling.

pic if it helps

https://www.homemadeturbo.com/attach...ine=1315193993

i don't everything that you have changed but i had some what of that problem on my sportage and it all came down to the exhaust and Cat. have you keep the stock exhaust and cat? it sounds like the engine is being choked. do you have a problem if you rev the engine as you put in the clutch. back pressure can cause problems and the higher RPMs overcomes this but when you go to netural the pressure over takes this. That is just my two cents, i know on the sportage i keep having problems and max boost was a problem when i removed the pre cat this all went away and i could boost up to 15psi( i did fuel and other things to get this)

It has done it with and without the cat installed. It almost sounds like I get some turbo "flutter" as it is about to stall.

I have tried to rev it a bit just as it wants to stall and it will rev fine but stall when it drops back down. I have tried to let it come back to idle slowly but it does the same.

where is your blow off valve? your cooler is doing absolutely nothing in the engine bay. you might as well remove it. you dont need an intercooler for 6psi or less and with an fmu as your fueling you shouldnt go above 6 psi anyway.
i dont see an fmu in the pic.
you are most likely procuding some large amounts of airflow at idle and leaning out the engine. do u have a wideband o2 hooked up? if so, check the idle afr just before and when its dying out at idle. this should give you an idea.
i think a bov will solve your problem since you said the turbo is fluttering which is a sign there is some suging going on.

Green = I second that!

Red = I disagree. His IC is not huge to start so IMO it's not useless at all. However the placement makes it a heat soak, and there is no fresh-air-charge. His radiator alone will be left to handle proper cooling work of an FI setup.

Not only can the IC help keep IAT low, he'll pick up some low end power. How much? unknown! A lot? doubt it! I also think your MAF should be further away from the engine. Your temps reading that close will be warmer than norm.


I hope we helped. Good luck w/ the fix.

Joel

I don't have an fmu or bov but the bov i will install this weekend. Where can i find an fmu? The intercooler will work soon enough, I am installing a 300zx scoop above it so it gets some airflow. There are a few guys runningthis setup with only the ecu adding fuel at boost under 5 psi. I also have no wideband either. This is my first install and I have driven the truck under a mile, some any help is good. Thanks.

Wideband is not necessary, but it helps. You need to know when your too rich, and too lean. Scoop idea, A+ FMU can be bought online mainly ebay.

you may be able to get away with it but a wideband should be the next thing to buy. There is no good way to tell this as you drive. Don't fall for a cheap narrow band get the windband. you can always change it to a different car in the future.

I Love my AEM wideband, a must have for any kind of engine tuning. Without a BOV there is no were for the air to go at idle. How are you liking the saab turbo? I have one on the way for my first turbo project.

since your actually going to make a usable intercooler setup you can boost it more than 4 psi. using an fmu is a bad idea as its not an actual tune and you dont want to go past 6 psi with an fmu. your best bet for reliability and power is to get it chipped. move the intercooler to the front where it will be most efficient. its a truck. theres plenty of room. i built a similiar kit on a 98 chevy s10 2.2 running 8 psi and it was a blast to drive.