RedCavz

Alright, i've wondered this for the longest time, so i'll try to explain the best I can.

Say, we have a motor thats gonna break at 300whp. Just throwing a number out there for the sake of this question. Now 20psi will make that 300whp (causing the motor to break). Now say we're at 16psi and only need about another 20-30whp to get the the 300whp. Instaed of upping the boost that 4psi, whats the difference in adding parts such as intake manifolds, pullies, etc. as opposed to upping the boost some more. I know it will be more effiicient power, but if it's just adding more power like boost, what's the difference. I guess i'm just basiclly asking if the power bolt-on's add will work towards the breaking point of the motor.

gurusan

well i'm pretty sure that adding other bolt ons wouldn't increase cylinder pressure...because the motor wouldn't actually be taking in larger volumes of air, just not having to work as hard to pull the air in, netting more power.

?? i dunno? good question?

RedCavz

well when does it matter then? (with what parts)

MikeJ-2009

I'm not sure why the 300 breaking point is part of the question, but in general, adding bolt ons will either:

Add power at the same boost level
Change the power band around

If you don't have any bolt ons then you can achieve higher power by just turing up the boost. If you can reach your power goals doing that, than the only other reason I would see to add bolt ons is because you want to change the driveability of the car (the power band) or you want to achieve your power goal with an overall more efficient setup. (using possibly lower boost than you were before the bolt ons)

StanB

I agree with ghettoturbo. I does not matter how you achieve 300whp. If things are going to break at 300whp, they will break. The big difference is rather than increasing cylinder temperature by turning up the boost level, by using bolt-ons you are freeing up HP (that was already there) which the engine could not use due to friction. Slowing down the alternator and the power steering or using a lighter fly wheel will require less power to turn so you will see an increase in HP. Even using lighter valve springs can yield some usable HP. All you have done is help the engine overcome friction.

I might be wrong but, the power curve should start a little earlier.

RedCavz

thanks stan, so the motor is going to break no matter what. Even if you go all bolt on's and are "freeing up" the power rather than adding it via boost. Sound right?

gurusan

well consider a b16 at 300 whp....it's already near the limit of the pistons....but the rods/crank are just fine for way more power.....so theoretically if you could free up power without increasing cylinder pressures then you could have a decently reliable 320-330+whp stock b16.

My plan is to eventually tune my b16 for 11 psi using a huge turbo....and then swap on an AEBS intake manifold and 65mm tb and see where I'm at......so I'm curious about this too.

The previous owner made 312whp on only 9psi with a 2.0 ls/vtec 9:1 c/r...stock b16 head....so I'm kinda stoked to see how much power I'll be making....also a bit nervous because this is my first turbo setup.....I'm going to just run 6 psi for now.

StanB

gurusan, yes you'll have a more reliable engine due to less heat. The more HP you can free up before you boost, the less psi you have to run to meet your goal. If 300 whp is the limit of the rods, try not to excede it so that the engine will last for a while.

gurusan

well i think b16 rods can handle a hell of a lot more than 300 whp.