Rods & fuel pump
 

Hey, I have a 92 JDM EG8 civic which comes with the JDM 1500 SOHC VTEC engine (d15b - 130hp)

My civic is in the process of the turbo conversion (using IHI VF10 turbo, custom manifold, 500mm x 300mm custom intercooler, 2 extra 420cc injectors, & link engine management).

Im planning on running my car at 7 psi on standard internals.

Anyone have any objections to this amount of boost on this engine? Will the rods hold up?

Will the standard fuel pump be Ok?

I know these JDM engines arnt common but any help would be appreciated.

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

yes the motor will be fine providing u have some sort of decent tuning like zdyne or custom boost chips.

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

Ok, Do you have any links to these tuning devices?

Im using a 'intercept link' which fools the map sensor to allow boost http://link-electro.co.nz/ancillary_devices.html
Im also using an extra injector controller which will be dyno tuned - http://link-electro.co.nz/powerlink.html

Is this similar to zdyne or custom boost chips?

Thanks.

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

Any help would be appreciated.

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

That setup will be just fine.. Might take a little bit to tune it, but other than that, you should be just fine.

That turbolink looks similar to the EIC setup
http://www.sdsefi.com/eic.html

Jeff

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

Sweet, Thanks for that. My car is being dyno tuned tomorow morning and I get it back tomorow night (provided nothing goes wrong :-X).
I'l post up my numbers & how it goes.

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

Civic is running but still needs a bit more tuning.
Its first run on the dyno it reached 105KW @ the wheels @ 6psi. Not the best power but my car would have struggled to make 60KW @ the wheels while N/A + Its nice and reliable for daily driving :)

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

That seems low.
That engine is rated at 130 hp at the flywheels. that would be 97KW

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I want to compare factory power rating to my current reading.
How do i convert power at the fly wheel to power at the wheels?

Thanks.

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

you lose something like 15-20% through the drive line.

Driveline losses
 

I think 15-20% for a FWD Honda is too much. I would estimate 12-15% For FWD, 15-18% for RWD, and 20-25% for AWD (I remember Sport Compact Car testing the Subaru WRX when it first came out and being surprised that thet 227hp engine rating was measuring 168hp at the wheel (a 25% driveline loss)).

Kevin

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

i dont know why you guys all say % drivetrain loss..

ok.. a stock 92 si hatch has 127hp (z6 motor). - that 13% or so drivetrain loss. means 110whp (wheel hp). Meaning the drivetrain used 17hp to turn all the gears axles pumps and the alternator. what makes you think it would take any more hp to turn all the same crap on a 500hp turbocharges beast?? still should have the same HP loss not percentage.

if your z28 has 200hp (example!) and takes 25% to drive the rear wheels u get 150whp. by using percentages a 1000hp z28 would only do 750whp?!?! nah!! probably 950 or so.

just keep that in mind ;)

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

We all use percentages because it is the correct approximation method. For example a 500hp engine is ONLY at 500hp under peak load. Redline the engine with the car's wheels off the ground would require very little horsepower.

So if the engine is putting out peak power, it is transfering all that power through the drivetrain. Consequently the gears are all being forced together very tightly and the greatly elevated gear teeth loading does in fact create significantly more friction (hence power loss and heat generation) with the drivetrain.

Drivetrain losses are NOT constant. Higher load on the drivetrain = higher loss. Using a percent factor is the correct approach.

Kevin

Re:Rods & fuel pump
 

gears forced together? they dont support each other, the shafts are supported by bearings and such..

if more power were forcing the gears tighter together eventually they would lock up.