Reliable Amount Of Power on Stock D16Y8 with Boost?
 

So i am boosting my D16Y8 and im going to shoot for 200whp. I've got a T18 turbo and will probably be pushing 8-10psi. Just want to get some on input on if my stock internals will be able to handle that power/boost safely as this is just a fun daily driver and i plan on driving it all the time. I've looked around and have found a lot of different info on what is a safe amount of hp/boost to run. Any input helps. Thanks in advance.

You should be fine if you don't go over 200whp and 8-10lbs is right about where you want to be.
Make sure you get a good tune.
Personally, I would replace the Rods and crank. A6 rods and crank are a little stronger and the crank has dual oiling holes, so it's much less pron to spinning bearings.
Also a set of ACL Race main bearings w/ 3/4'' oiling gap, instead of oem 1/2''.
Swapping your wiring from OBD-2 to OBD-1 give you greater tune-ability.
y8' have an inferior water pump, which contributes to spinning bearings. Only after swapping to OBD-1 can you run a Z6 oil pump, which is much more reliable.
Last, but definitely not least, the head bolts/studs. This is the crucial point of stress. It's highly advised on most every D16 Turbo thread out there to install ARP head studs, they are a good cost effective ($100-$130) assurance.
The head gasket is a common misconception. No, you don't need a Cometic MLS head gasket. Any quality MLS will do. Don't install a graphite gasket and you'll be fine.
So, that's my advise. Hope your build goes well.
Here's what I run in my crx:
D16Z6 Block/Head
Chipped 28 ECU
D15Z1 -16 dished Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods (had to notch the block)
ACL Race main bearings w/ 3/4'' oil gap
King Rod bearingspiston rings
NPR Piston rings
Fel-Pro MLS Head gasket
ARP head studs
D16A6 main drive pulley (Heavy as hell and yes, has built in damper)
DSM 560cc Injectors
P20 Hydro trans w/ LSD
Re-surfaced OEM Flywheel (stock weight = more inertia that helps hold boost longer)
Yonaka Stage-3 6-Puck clutc

Fresh build. Running a kkk k26 t3 Turbo @ 13psi. Good so far.

Ok ya i got my car tuned to 190whp. I've converted to OBD1 (P28 w/hondata s300). So does that mean that i can just switch directly over to a z6 oil pump with no issues or is there something i have to do in order to swap my Y8 oil pump for a Z6?

Oh and maybe a stupid question but can a swap out the rod bearings by just taking off the oil pan unbolting the rod and then swap out the bearings?

Yes, you can swap directly to the D16Z6 Pump and actually you're much better off doing so. Nope, no issues or anything special you need to do, The OBD-1 plugs should work fine.
If you have an OBD-2 harness, with an OBD-2 to OBD-1 Jumper, then you have to rewire the oil-pressure sensor clip, with an OBD-1 clip.

Yes, you can. I've done that before. Lawl. You have to unbolt the block cradle too, ofcourse. Not a big deal actually.

Ok, now i when i was researching the oil pump issues. I found write ups on guys porting and shimming the stock pump. I found that a lot of people said that you should have around 80-90psi oil pressure around 3000rpm when it is shimmed. HOwever my pump has that 80-90psi without a shim. Would i be better to just port the stock pump then?

Hey, If it's not broke why fix it?
If your running 80-90psi, then (If I'm right) you dont want to increase much.
I think shimming the pump would be pointless, since your already just fine.
Are you sure it isn't swapped to a D16Z6 Pump?
How many wires does the sensor have?

Ya its not a D16z6 cause i have a dip stick, and from what i found if you convert to a z6 pump you lose your dip stick. So i'm thinking i might just port the pump and call it good.