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redline4 12-03-2009 11:34 AM

Not sure on the turbo.
 
I currently own a 2007 Cobalt SS/Supercharged 2.0l ecotec car and i've decided that to hit my power goal that m62 isn't going to cut it. So I've decided to build my own turbo setup for my car with a budget of around 2grand. There are a few turbo kits out for the car but they are around the 5k range. Anyhow, basically the point of this thread is I have two turbos im thinking about. I have the Holset hx35 turbo and I have Godspeed 60-1 turbo. Now basically the problem here is Im not sure which one would be perfect for what I need. Im looking for my car to run around 350whp easy with a chance up moving up in the future. I've been told the 60-1 would be better and that the hx35 is to big for my 2.0 and i've heard different as well.

Thanks

turbof22a 12-03-2009 11:51 AM

well if you can fabricate your own manifold and down pipe that will save you alot of money and make that 2k budget easier to hit. i would go with the god speed turbo. the hx35 is not to big. people use them on d16s quite often. they are both t3 turbos so it would be an easy swap for you if you did not like the 60-1.

redline4 12-03-2009 12:07 PM

Im going to fab my own manifold and I would fab my own downpipe if i knew where i can get the materials for the downpipe. Another problem is I only have a wire feed welder(gasless) so I can't weld stainless steel. Could i get stainless stick and tack it with my welder then take it to a exhaust shop to finish the welds for me?

turbof22a 12-03-2009 01:27 PM

why not just do it in mild steel? no need for stainless unless your really good welding and want to show off your work. mild will work just fine. for materials goto mandrelbends.com he use to be a sponcer on this site his prices are very good

redline4 12-03-2009 08:24 PM

hell yeah, got a question what would you recommend using to cut out a flange for my manifold? I got a blow torch but im afraid that would make to rough of a cut.

Atreidies 12-03-2009 09:36 PM

Weir Technologies - Precision Machining and Fabrication

His flanges are around $35. You don't want to cut your own flange, especially with a torch. The heat would warp it. To hit your budget and do your build right, you need to evaluate which parts you can skimp on. But you should be able to keep it under $2,000 if you don't swap internals.

redline4 12-03-2009 10:24 PM

Wow thanks for that, I found a ecotec flange i just hope it will fit the 2.0.

Atreidies 12-03-2009 10:34 PM

No problem. Call tomorrow and ask. He will know. And check this site out - How To: Build Your Own ECOTEC Turbo Kit - Cobalt SS Network

But make sure you come back here with updates and a build thread!!

redline4 12-03-2009 10:51 PM

yea, well im i got everything figured out it's really just getting the materials for the build and to keep the cost down as much as possible. Really the biggest problem for me is creating a o2 housing and downpipe for the car. Because I have no way to really bend the mild-steel so im having to get different mandrel bent pipe and cut what i need out of it. Sadly there is going to be a lot of waste.

turbof22a 12-03-2009 11:36 PM

yeah it sucks not being able to bend your own pipe. wier's flanges are awesome and fast to arrive. if he does not have your flange if you send him a gasket he can make it for you. he also does 120 tacked together log manifolds for any 4 cylinder

redline4 12-04-2009 12:16 AM

How much does the run most time?

turbof22a 12-04-2009 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by redline4 (Post 1294415)
How much does the run most time?

what?

Atreidies 12-04-2009 11:46 PM

Must be distracted cuz he just won 50 inturnetz.

redline4 12-05-2009 09:18 AM

you said that guy makes log style manifolds and i was asking you how much does he charge...

Atreidies 12-05-2009 09:54 AM


Originally Posted by turbof22a (Post 1294409)
he also does 120 tacked together log manifolds for any 4 cylinder

You will have to finish the welds, but the hard part is already done. As far as O2 bungs, you can find those for under $10 at plenty of places.

redline4 12-06-2009 12:45 PM

I assume that includes flange as well?

Also, I need a housing not a bung... After the turbo it has to pretty much turn like a "s" bend to line up with new downpipe. I though about taking a 180 degree bend and cutting it in the middle

icemike89 12-06-2009 12:59 PM

Lsj and l61 flanges are the same, not sure about the 2.4 vvt. I would buy a premade turbo manifold and just fab your downpipe and charge piping. Look into vulcan turbo, they make good j-body/delta manifolds for a few hundred bucks.

2k dollar budget is very doable if you do all your own fab work. I would just buy the manifold, turbo, wg, bov, and all your misc oil lines and what not then you could prolly only have to put about $100 or so into piping.

Atreidies 12-06-2009 05:54 PM


Originally Posted by redline4 (Post 1294636)
I assume that includes flange as well?

Also, I need a housing not a bung... After the turbo it has to pretty much turn like a "s" bend to line up with new downpipe. I though about taking a 180 degree bend and cutting it in the middle

It is the entire manifold, just not fully welded. He tack welds it, so it won't come apart during shipping, but you would have to finish the welds.

What do you mean o2 housing? Where it mounts to the DP? That is a bung.

redline4 12-06-2009 09:38 PM

this is a o2 housing...

https://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/cheapturbo_2083_5576888
you connect it to the downpipe... unless i make my new downpipe then i can just make the downpipe have the curve.


here is what my downpipe will have to look like

https://i181.photobucket.com/albums/...lutch003-1.jpg

Atreidies 12-07-2009 11:30 AM

That little nipple is the bung. You can get them cheap and add them to the pipe anywhere you want. If that part is pretty cheap, then go with it.

redline4 12-08-2009 12:34 PM

Yea I know what a 02 bung is...lol Im saying i enither have to get a o2 housing made to fit on my current downpipe which i will have to cut up. Or just go with a straight 3in downpipe with the o2 housing welded into the downpipe.

Atreidies 12-08-2009 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by redline4 (Post 1294810)
Yea I know what a 02 bung is...lol Im saying i enither have to get a o2 housing made to fit on my current downpipe which i will have to cut up. Or just go with a straight 3in downpipe with the o2 housing welded into the downpipe.

And what I'm saying is it will be cheaper for you to just weld a bung onto the downpipe instead of buying a housing and welding that to the DP. Just trying to help you hit your budget bro.

redline4 12-10-2009 12:08 PM

gotcha dude, and I appreciate it too :) I contacted that guy about the exhaust manifold and he hasn't got back to me yet. Would it be best to just call him?

Also guys, if you have any other suggestions on a turbo plz let me know :)

darkhorizon 12-19-2009 02:56 PM

As far as size is concerned... its really too close say that a hx35 is biggert han a 60-1 or vice versa.

If anything the HX35 is going to spool a bit faster, and make a bit more power if you are running more than 20psi of pressure ratio. The 60-1 should make a bit more power if your boost goal is around 12-15.

Both turbos will support 500whp without issue... and the HX35 WILL spool faster.

redline4 12-21-2009 12:32 PM

Well, the turbo build has been put on hold...Found out that Im going to have a little one coming in 9 months. :D

Atreidies 12-21-2009 01:30 PM

Congrats!!

redline4 03-13-2010 12:40 AM

Okay I'm taking the thread to the top again since I've started on the turbo build once again. I've purchased a few items since we last talked.

Garrett T60 Turbo (I'll get the model number later)
Vibrant Turbo Manifold
38mm Tial Wastegate
Hahn Intake Manifold

I still got to buy the intercooling piping and the downpipe and I have the guy willing the turbo the car.

busa4 03-13-2010 04:25 AM

looking forward to see your build. im currently working on my 06 cobalt lt 2.2 ecotec turbo build. doing the same thing except im tearing into the motor with eagle rods and wiseco low compression pistons. im building the header right now so it will be a couple of weeks before thats done. is the vibrant turbo manifold a log style manifold?

redline4 03-13-2010 07:58 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Yea, I can get away with a little bit more than you since I have the slightly stronger motor than you.

Here is the current setup: Attachment 6464

Intake is off a cavy so we had to cut the flange and modify it to fit the LNF now we are modifying to fit the lsj.

busa4 03-15-2010 01:09 PM

is that going to fit without hitting the firewall? someone posted on another forum using that style manifold and it busted up his firewall pretty bad.

iceracerdude 03-15-2010 05:43 PM

Ok, sorry to be jumping into this so late but I've been busy ice racing.
Thought you might want to see this, this is where you want to start so that as you keep going, you'll keep getting closer and closer to factory. The advantage to that is less experimentation and risk. The thing is already set up for you application and clocking and exhaust setup. Anyway what you're looking at here if you don't already know is the/a new, factory fresh Borg/Warner unit that comes on the 2.0 LNF for the Cobalt SS, the Sky Redline, Solstice etc. This is the real deal, not ching chong meow. I happen to know the stealership list price for these is $1,350...and you have to wait a month at that. click to enlarge the pics, I can send you other pics if you need them. pm me for a price;
http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/8597/pict0034.th.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/7...ct0031e.th.jpg
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2038/pict0030.th.jpghttp://img691.imageshack.us/img691/7...pt4c001.th.jpg
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/7...pt4c001.th.jpg

redline4 03-16-2010 09:26 PM

Busa: Hey Yes it will hit the firewall without modification. But we have purposely cut the flange and made it so it would clear the firewall. The picture is before we done all the cutting and fitting.

busa4 05-05-2010 12:18 PM

did you give up on this?

redline4 05-05-2010 08:44 PM

Yea cuz im going with a v8 and that manifold will work on your build. It is cut to the bottom so it will fit.


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