Yeah I did. That cylinder was just pumping air so it seemed like I was running leaner than I was.

I just put in the "standard" hack settings, -40 @ 1000 to -36 @ 7500. This made my car run VERY lean at idle, like 18:1, so I didnt even try to drive it.

My previous setting were -29 @ 1000 to -18 @ 7500. Do I just need to find a nice median? What should I shoot for at .5 bar? 12:1?

 

I hope you didn't damage that one cylinder that was leaning out.. then again if you say it was getting zero fuel then I guess it wasn't hurting anything.

 

Yeah, it wasnt getting any fuel at all. The shop said that since it wasnt getting any fuel it wasnt heating up and nothing was hurt.

Anyway, I was just reading the FAQs and they say no FPR is required. Do they mean an FMU? Or do I need to remove my stock FPR?

 

please go into detail on that last statement

 

From the Engine Management FAQ-

"...signal scaling (which decreases fuel flow). No fuel pressure regulator is needed. No upgraded fuel pump should be required."

Do I need to remove my stock fuel pressure regulator for the hack?

 

Let me claify, no aftermarket fuel pressure regulator is requried, sounds kinda goofy..

You can use stock pump and stock regulator for 10-12psi on lots of setups.

 

Ahh, someone might want to change it.

So I guess I just have to mess with it until it runs stoich at idle and 12:0ish on boost?

Would running 9:1 cause it to sputter and break up?

 

I assume you are using a wideband o2 and not a cheeze dick aftermarket Air-fuel gauge with a narrow band setup right?

 

Correct.

 

Correct. Ohh, and what should my gaps on my spark plugs be?