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Okay i took my civic out for a drive today and when i start to go it almost dies and i throw a #3 light (MAP sensor) thats when i'm not even boosting.. when i restart the car and hit boost it won't throw it unless the rpms drop... and now when it's at idle the car goes to like 400rpm then back up to 1000.. and it keeps jumping

what do you guys think it is

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Whats your setup and what fuel management etc. are you using?

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DSM 450cc injectors
V-AFC at idle its at -42% so it should be getting enough fuel and yes i tried it at -48% also and same type of idle.. it just won't stay at a certain rpm.. like i even upped the idle to 1500 and it dropped to 600rpms and back up to 1500...

also the car was sitting for 6-7 months could my MAP sensor have gone to ----?

and i'm on the RHB5 and full boost is 8 psi but it don't even go on in boost, just when i'm starting to go and it almost dies than i have to rev it up to 2k and let the clutch go just so i don't throw the CEL

Oh yeah 1 more thing... when i start to go VERY SELDOM the CEL comes on when i'm getting up to speed then it goes right off.. in NO boost too.

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Hmmm, did your battery go dead or anything after that 6 months of sitting there. Check to make sure that the "vehichle settings" are still correct. It should be the arrow facing up at a slight angle, and 06in-06out.
Also, is there fresh gas in the car? Could be bad gas now that it's been sitting for so long. I'd also start checking over all my wiring and vacuum connections... Mice like to chew copper in wires :-\

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yeah my battery dies.. so i have to disconnect the battery everytime i go to start the car... but i remember i checked that setting and it was still 6/6 a while ago... maybe that was when i just jumped it and looked and still had the battery connection.. maybe by disconecting the battery it'll make it reset? i have no idea.. yeah there is fresh 91 octane pump gas in there...

could it be the MAP sensor for sitting so long without starting it, 6-7 months..???

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im going to go on what my gut is telling me....its the dead batt., is like when your batt. dies and you have to re set your clock and radio

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well all the fuel correction points are all the same on the V-AFC each time... not unless the in/out deal would only reset? i'll check to see if thats it tho

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double check all your vacuum lines, if you have one loose it will ---- your ---- up real bad

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okay i'll recheck the vacuum lines... BTW i LOVE boost!!!!! psi and my turbo is loud as ---- when it spools.. my friend was like 1/2 block away and he said he could still hear my turbo.. haha ;D

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check your wiring connections for the afc at the ecu.

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that works fine...

do i need check vales with the AFC hack???

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Okay forget that last post i made.. heres some info on what i got figured out

-The idle starts at 1000rpm then drops to 400 and keeps doing that and 1 time it actually died at idle.

-Person said poke holes in the MAP sensor vacuum line.. did that.. same thing happened..

-VAFC should be fine cuz it was running perfect when the car went on stands a while ago.. never touched it.


sooo i'm stumped...

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Do not poke holes in your MAP lines. That is causing a vac leak which is probably why you're idle is all fucked up.
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no it did the idle thing even before i did that..

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Either way, don't poke holes in your vac lines. It won't help anything.

Clean your IACV.
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Definately do not touch those vacuum lines.. Replace your tps or check it at least. also you may need to replace ur iacv sensor. It could also just be a vacuum leak or ur car tripping from the map not reading enough voltage or something. The map sitting for 6 months is not a problem though.

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Oh ----, lastly check ur bov... i have a feeling u might have the vac line to it connected wrong.. also check ur wastegate vac lines.. may have melted or some ----

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I had the same problem as you;

try increasing your fuel values to richen them up. I know you'll be running really rich but try increasing them to about -35%-37%. This fixed my crappy low-throttle issues with the hack.

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Will did you throw the CEL??

also all vacuum lines are perfect.. no leaks.

i'll try to richen it a little bit.

My AFC settings:

1000-2000rpm = -48%
3000 rpm = -46%
4000 rpm = -44%
5000 rpm = -42%
6000 rpm = -40%
7000 rpm = -38%

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Well, that seems a bit on the lean side. Try -35 across and see what happens. Reset the ECu before anything.

I would TRIPLE check your wiring. Seriously, if you are throwing a cel and you're not even hitting boost, something else is wrong.
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yeah thats what i'm saying, its gotta be something so stupid that i can't find it.. it will NOT happen in boost.. i held the rpms at 3000 rpms so i wasn't in boost... NO CEL... hit boost... NO CEL.... stopped... started to go and rpms drop and CEL comes on for MAP Sensor #3.

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ok i just remembered this...

stock 88-91 si injectors are 240cc and i'm using 450cc injectors so..

240/450 = .533 so then 1 - .533 = .466 which comes to the 450cc injectors are 46.6% larger so on the V-AFC by doing 48% at idle i'm not giving it enough fuel.. correct?

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Actually, the 450cc injectors are 87.5% larger than 240cc injectors. The 240cc injectors are 46.6% smaller than 450cc injectors. :P Did I confuse you yet? ;)

Sometimes when you are using such large injectors you need to take away more fuel at idle to make it idle right. Also, I don't think the % is completely accurate anyways. It doesn't take the signal from the ECU to the injectors. It takes the signal from the MAP and blah blah blah....don't know if you know this....

You shouldn't throw a MAP code when you're not even in boost so my guess is the wiring.
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wiring for what? the V-AFC? i swear there is no connection to the MAP sensor from the V-AFC.. maybe i'm wrong but on the site i see no MAP sensor connection.

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Jesus, I hope you're joking.........
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your map sensor needs to be hooked up to your vafc dude. how is it supposed to trick it if its not hooked up

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ok could it be cause i'm throwing a #1 code but NOT throwing a CEL??? i put the o2 sensor on the hf manifold... was that not right? this is a question towards my idle going from 400 - 1000.

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Hey i saw a post on automotiveforums that the V-AFC was actually throwing the code for the MAP sensor....

so how would the V-AFC throw the code?..... i guess i don't really get why it does.

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so your vafc isnt hooked up to the map wire? if not u need to hook it up. in order to use the vafc hack to trick the map sensor. you have to have it hooked up. or it will never work. cause how are u supposed to map hack if u dont have the map hooked up

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Okay i switched the sensor code on the V-AFC from 06 in and 06 out... i switched it to 0 in and 0 out.. and no CEL and it idles perfect.... how did that work?

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are all the other sensor types on the afc set at '0'?? are you sure you're setting the right sensor type (i believe it's 'pressure', i haven't looked at an afc in a while).

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on the AFC its says Sensor Type and the book says 06 in 06 out..... it runs better at 0 in 0 out..... but i still throw the CEL everyonce and a while and my ecu blinks #3 all the time...... MAP Sensor.... WTF do i do? should i just run a check valve on the map sensor or what the ---- should i do?

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s-afc or v-afc?

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V-AFC

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OMFG!!!!!!!!!!! :'( someone shoot me in the forehead!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MOTHER FUCKER! AHHHHHHHHHHHH.. ok the Pressure wires from the V-AFC i never had connected, i disconnected them so i couldn't mess with them when i did the mini-me swap... i was going to get it dyno tuned but then blew my headgasket and thats when the car went up on stands...

well anyway what ECU code thing do i go by on www.apexi.com ????????? they don't have PM6 88-91 civic/crx si ecu!!!! please help me...

also theres 2 wires... which one goes where: the YELLOW one says Pressure OUTPUT and the WHITE wire is Pressure INPUT... should i cut that wire and connect the pressure wire running to the map sensor to the white one (INPUT) and then the yellow one back to the wire from the ecu? please help.. thank god i saw that when i did... i've only driven it 2 times around my block..