Adam Hopkins

I would first like to thank MRMOCOS. He is a member of the forum here and sold me the BEGI FMU. I found a for sale thread on here that was old as hell and he had this FMU listed. I shot him a email and he called me the next day and said he still had it. I sent him the money via PAYPAL and expected it in the mail in the next couple of days. He (MRMOCOS) calls me back and says that he took it apart to make sure it was in working order. He found a broken spring and called me right back and said there was a problem. He offers me a full refund or says he will fix it and then ship it to me. He took the initiative to call BEGI and order the correct replacement parts and had them shipped to my house at no additional cost. Not only that, BEGI suggested if the spring was broke that there was probably some shim damage, so he paid for that to be shipped also. MRMOCOS is a stand up guy in my book and I will vouch for him any day. Thanks again man, it is people like you that make me think there is still hope for humanity and doing the right thing.

On to the bike, I just received the shims and spring for the BEGI and I also got the oil pump. I am going to work on it and hopefully do a little test riding if all goes well. Wish me luck!

Tough-guy

If this is your fisrt run on boost my only advice to you is to check you charge pipe connections. I lost a charge pipe in a wheelie the 5th or 6th run I ever did and nearly got killed. DOUBLE CHECK that ---- mang.

MRMOCOS

Good to hear everything is going well. Will be following your progress.

Adam Hopkins

Ok, It has been a while since I updated this thread. It has been fun, but I have had some troubles. I went to the dyno and could not get the boost to go over 3psi. Also the gauge would flutter and not hold steady boost. I put down 160 hp on 3psi. I was not happy that I couldnt get the boost to go over that.

I did a ton of testing and could not get the flutter to go away. Long story short I ended up buying a different boost gauge and all the problems went away.

I also got to thinking my bike was not accelerating correctly. Ever since I owned the bike It just did not feel right. I mean if I was at 3000 and twisted the throttle the torque did not fell like it was there. My buddy rode it before I turbo'd it and he said something was wrong. I decided I wanted to check the motor out and just make sure everything was ok. I did a compression test and got 170-180 accross the boar(thats within the spec). I took my valve cover off to check the timing and my intake cam was retarded 1 tooth.

Basically I made 160 HP on 3 PSI with the engine timing off. This 1 tooth makes all the difference in the world. My bike revs much quicker and has the snap it should. I have bought a APE tensioner and it will be here in a couple of days to prevent any more problems with timing chain slippage.

More bad news is my turbo is leaking oil. It only does it sometimes and I have a return pump on it. I think I need to change the turbo to a ball bearing. See the BB turbos need little to no oil and you can restrict them down pretty good. I have talked to a turbo shop around here and because I am getting small traces of oil on both sides of the turbo, he thinks too much pressure is building up in the turbo and pushing past the seals. Tuff-guy, I am pm'ing you my number, I have a couple of questions and ideas and im hoping your personal experience will help me out some.

I am looking for a gt28r or a T28 off of a Nissan 240 Black Top(Its a T28 Ball bearing). I have a gt3076R in my garage but that turbo is way too big for a 750. Maybe a Busa, but not the 750

All in all I am still working out some bugs and I might take the kit off until I can get the exact turbo I want for the bike. By the way 2nd gear is a hand full.

Tough-guy

Gt28R on your setup is gonna WIN. I'll talk to you about it tomorrow, as we've (more people than just myself) have seen this problem before and I've got some insight for you.

Sinner

where the heck are the pictures?

Tough-guy

Pics are working fine for me.

Pdub383426

I rn a GT28R on my 686cc at, and seems to work quite well, spools very quick, just a tad on the lagy side, but you have more cc's it might be working better for you. I hae a stroker 861cc kit in my garage to be installed soon, I will have before and after dyno's if you are interested, but then again they are quite different with a single clinder vs. a 4 cylinder

Templin

Hi adam just a quick note do yourself a favour and just inspect the TPS (throttle position sensor) the Suzuki's have a habbet for chewing them up (I know I have had a few currently got a K9 750)

Its a precationery check and maby also avoid you the hassel later of chasing phantom faults

Its easy just take a volt meter place the positive on the center wire (sence feed ) the neg on the motor with ign switched on you should read from 2.2V to 4.8V as you open the throttle from closed to full open if the readings climb settdly unit is ok if readings are erractic or at times disappear unit is toast

The unit norm wears a groove in the slide plate so between 1/3 and 1/2 throttle the slide plate over times breakes contact with the resistor windings and the ecm get a false signal the ecm only knows if something is wrong when the signal feed is gone for more that 15s or if voltage is below 1v or above 4.8 but most sensor should report between 2-4.5v to the ecm when bike is running