mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

so my new setup is pushing coolant. . i'm using a stock y7 (i think) mls head gasket with arps torqued to 65 ft lbs. I have used an mls headgasket in the past on my z6 and had the same problem with pushing coolant...i replaced it with a 88-95 d15 non-mls gasket and resurfaced the block and didnt have any problems. Does anyone else have problems with mls gaskets? Anyone think my arp's aren't torqued high enough? I'm thinking about just replacing the shitty mls with a standard type tomorrow and seeing if that fixes it.

oh yeah, d16y7 with a 14b at 8 psi nothing insane.

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

I had a problem with my old felpro MLS. I think I used too much coper spray gasket ----. I just redid my headgasket without the spray ---- and it's sealed fine.

I torqued my ARP studs to 70ftlbs. I know in the manuals it says 65ft lbs for stock headstuds, but ARP says 70. And when you torque them a second time after removing them I go 2 ft lbs higher than before, when you hit about 75lbs they're on their last leg.

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

I've never had any problems with the fel-pro mls gaskets, with copper spray or without.
Go with the torque specs from ARP. Did you stretch them first? Did you also use moly lube to get a correct torque reading?
Did you also check to make sure the deck was completely flat...D-series are known to sink cylinders a little bit, so it's best to check that first.

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

the head was shaved and block decked, i know what you mean with the cylinders as i have seen it with them before. I didn't have the tools to check for bolt stretch on the arps and yes i did use the arp moly lube. I'm thinking about torquing them down 5-10 more ft lbs to see if that will seal it up but i don't want to have to buy new arp's when i replace the gasket if that doesn't work. . .

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

Shouldn't have to replace the ARP's...they're not like factory honda bolts where they reccomend 1 use and throw them away (not that we ever do anyway ;D). I would take them to ARP's specs and see if it helps.

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

well i tightened them down while i was painting my valve cover. All are set to 75 ft lbs, a couple didn't budge when i went to torque them to 75 and a few others moved a lot...i went for a drive and did a couple hard pulls and the temp hasn't jumped like it was earlier but i'm keeping my fingers crossed and am ready for a quick headgasket change in the near future. Thanks guys.

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

I have used it many times. Never heard of anyone having trouble with it.


I know this thing uses copper spray. He uses like 6 layers with plenty of dry time in between. lol.
http://myspace-451.vo.llnwd.net/0081...11062451_l.jpg

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

My leak wasn't bad. My temp didn't go up, and I wasn't blowing any white smoke and I had pretty much perfect compression on a rebuilt motor.. It just got wet on the front of the block. I still drove it for like two months with it like that.

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

So there was just a little coolent seeping out between the head and the block? Thats caused by your head or block not being perfectly straight or not properly cleaing off the surfaces and headgasket before installation. Either clean and surface your ---- or stick to your sloppy composite gaskets.

Re: mls head gasket, arp torque and pushing coolant
 

yeah my case is different...no white smoke..coolant isnt getting into the cylinders, the pressure of the cylinders is pushing out into the coolant passages causing the radiator cap to release all the coolant into the resevoir thus overheating the engine.