junaid786

ok.scrap that.i was mis informed abt timing.timing in N/A is like the opposite of a car with boost. I now knw that i need 2 raise the static advance and keep it there.or make it retard under boost. Im learning so much every day.i hope somebody else can learn frm this too

junaid786

ag to hell with this piece of crap k03. im just going to get the t3/t4 0.63. that way i can save gas on easy throttle and only get boost at WOT. the auto gearbox changes gear at 3000rpm on light to medium throttle. and around 5000- 6000 at WOT. i reckon my stock fuel system would be sufficient to supply the extra fuel if i use an external wastegate and limit the boost to 4 psi. at least i wont have to worry about excess heat and boost creep issues. that way i can live without the intercooler for now. i know this system can supply alot of fuel at high rpm. i just never get ther that often. only on the highways. ah well. there goes my idea of zipping around town in rocket powered mobile home.lol

busa4

i try to tell everyone there is no such thing as cheap boost.

busa4

you have it reversed. advance under boost = detonation, retard under boost prevents detonation. you do not need any timing adjustments for low boost. stock timing will be fine.

im running 10 psi on my gm 2.2 ecotec engine with no timing adjustment.

busa4

this is the way i went. im using a gt35 with a .83ar exhaust housing on my 2.2 ecotec engine. it doesnt spool till 4500 rpm so i can drive around town without boosting. the great thing about it is on the expensive fuel days; like now, i can put 87 octane instead of 93 octane fuel into the vehicle and not have to worry about damaging the engine. since i dont boost until 4500 rpm i can drive around town easily on 87 octane without boosting.

Duckmang

Your car does have electronic control of fuel. There is an electrohydraulic valve that controls the pressure to the mechnical injectors. A lambda adjsutment will not give you enough fuel for boost without severly overfueling when not on boost. Injector swap will not change that either, they only mist the fuel that has already been metered upstream.

junaid786

yes,i just discovered the EHA valve. It is mechanically adjustable and can enrich the mixture as the revs climb.only problem is i wud get 14:1 at idle which is gud. But 2 get the required 8:1 for 4 psi boost.i wud be getting 11:1 at part throttle. Thats very rich. Am i correct in assuming that a NA Afr of 8:1 would result in a 12:1 afr under 4psi boost? Thanks evryone for your input

busa4

theres no way of knowing the exact afr. as fuel pressure rises output at the injector is tough to calculate. its not an easy formula. if you double the pressure to the injector it doesnt double the injector output.

i think you need to scrap the idea of messing with the jetronic system and just install an extra injector controller setup. it will be more reliable and your guaranteed fuel in the runner.

junaid786

please tell me more about the 5th injector setup. Would the type that plugs into the charge pipe be suitable? And how would it b controlled? Vacuum or electronic? The system has a cold start injector installed that also enriches the mixture at WOT.would i b able 2 bridge the wires for the relay of the 5th injector off this? Does sumbody sell these 5th injector setups?

busa4

the controller i use can control up to 6 additional injectors. this is electronic controlled. the controller has a built in 2.5 bar map sensor that you run a vacuum line from the intake to the controller. its a 3 wire hook up. power, ground and tps signal. the controller only pulses the extra injectors when the controller built in map sensor reads boost. if there is no boost the controller is not adding fuel. im using 4 out of the 6 injectors the controller is capable of running. i have one injector in each intake runner. you can use one or two larger injectors in the boost pipe before the throttle body and it will work fine but there is always a chance that some cylinders will run richer or leaner than others since the fuel isnt being injected in the intake runner.
the controller requires a laptop to program. you program the controller based on rpm, boost pressure and tps angle. it takes time to do this. you want to start of will really rich tunes then gradually lean them out till your afr's are were you want them.

there is a cheaper version that doesnt require programming with a laptop. it mounts in your cab and you adjust injector pulse width with ***** on the face of the controller.

i think these will be your best bet.