I know a MBC is a simple device, i have used two different ebay specials and they both do the same thing.

1) on the road i can only leak .5 bar more
2) on the dyno i can only leak .3 bar more.

i wish to keep my low boost at .5 and my high boost 1.2-5.(on the road and dyno) is it possible without adjusting the actuator?(the actuator is already so tight and in a very difficult place...)

E-Boost is way outta my price range....

 

You should change your name to "circlejerker" lol
Sorry I don't have anything productive to add.

 

so what's your ------- question?

 

How do i leak more than .5 bar? This must be possible as when i pull the vacuum line off the actuator it will boost over 2 bars so all i need to do is interfear with the signal right?...

Is there a specfic vacuum line layout when using two MBC's, cos i took off the mbc put in a T Piece and added both MBC's on Full/Open and i still only get a leak of .5 bars? attached is a image to clarify....

 

1)My boost is constant
2) I have heard of this rule of thumb. Does the size of the vacuum line have any affect on how much air can be leaked? as im using 6mm V line. I have heard of peoples low boost being 1 bar/ high boost = 2 bars via a open closed soliniod, but why am i not having the same sucess?

 

Get your signal from the wastegate, not the turbo.

 

Vacuum line size only matters when it comes to initial boost spike and preventing the oem wg from opening slightly early. With a MBC on, it usually won't do either with a >1/8" line on.

If you are 'leaking' (use the word 'producing) 2bar w/o the WG opening, that means that your WG spring is about .3bar or a little less stock. In most cases you can control 2-3 times what your spring is, but I think you're hitting 2bar because you have your actuator on so tight. It should be just enough not to open early. If I was to guess, all your problems are from the MBC. It is either junk, or you aren't putting it in correctly. It should be adjustable to way beyond .6bar. It should be put in between the wastegate and the vacuum/boost source (turbo or intake manifold) to work properly, and it has to be installed so boost pushes against the ball/spring (which is inline with your ****/bolt).

BTW if you are using it on a vehicle with a boost solenoid & ecu that controls boost, you're usually ---- out of luck. Most cars with a boost solenoid don't work w/o it, and don't like mixing a EBC with an MBC.

 

I was just About to say that. i have been using a manual boost controller now i have opted for the electrnic boost soliniod to switch the car from low to hi so i can do it at the flick of a switch from inside the car.

If the solinoid had to open and the boost was too high. i would then put the Manual boost controller at the end of the circut to stop the car producting to much boost(but that is not the case, im still having the problem of increasing the boost...)