Max WHP of 240cc + FMU turbo setup?
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Not always, Maxxie. If you do the righrt things to your oil pump, or run a dry sump, some cars idle at 70 psi. Well, not a stock Honduh pump, and most of those are Honduhs, but depending on what's been done to the setup you see all sorts of oil pressures.
I was referring to honda pumps, unmolested of course. :P
I always molest my stock honda oil pumps...sort of a by-product of my years at my old race shop. Usually end up porting out the pumps a little, and then increasing the spring pressure on the release valve. Mostly I do it for high rpm usage. For every 1,000 rpm your bearings will require a minimum of 10psi of oil pressure. That being said, most stock honda pumps will supply between 15-20psi/1000rpm, that is until near the 5-6,000rpm range. I just don't like the fact of having 74psi at 8,500rpm, so I do some work to the pump to be able to see at least 85psi at that rpm. Granted there will be some friction losses, but I usually run either 10-30 royal purple or 10-30 redline synthetic. Boosted motors I jump up to 15-40, but most boosted motors won't see a constant 8500 abuse, so I usually just do a quick porting job to the housings and call it a day. And I usually clearance my bearings a hair on the loose side, so I can load the crank right away...which is why I run at higher oil pressures. As for the idiot light...by the time you see it, it's too late anyway. At least with the mechanical guage I can see a steady loss and notice if something's not right before serious damage is done.
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Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Cute, three post shill account.
HiHomosexual logged on earlier today ~ 6
0 pm EST and had nothing to say to me by way of "real life numbers and technical data." Now:
Name: HiProfile
Posts: 99 (0.146 per day)
Position: 0.5 BAR
Date Registered: March 03, 2005, 12:23:27 PM
Last Active: Today at 02
0:52 AM
Name: PoweredT3A6
Posts: 13 (0.040 per day)
Position: 0.0 BAR
Date Registered: February 22, 2006, 11:06
5 PM
Last Active: Today at 02
0:27 AM
Basically, you're either him on a shill account, or he has nothing by way of "real life numbers and technical data" to refute me with and puts a three post punk who can't post **** up to do his chump work for him.
Fucktard, I am a pgmfi.org moderator and did all the OG beta testing of both original OBD0 and OBD1 flavors of freeware boost code before you got your first snip of -----. I've been on and off in college for the last 16 years, and am a good bit more intelligent than the average smurf. I come here because I passionately love cars, and helping people who want to DIY and to learn because they are more like me than magazine reading ******* who buy high end Brand Name parts so they can get e-handjobs on bandwagon forums such as Honda-Tech. You, on the other hand, are just a goddamn homosexual because despite logging in on shill accounts claiming "real life numbers and technical data" you're coming to a grassroots forum asking basic n00b questions about FMUs and basic function of ROM editors that anyone with "real life numbers and technical data" should know.
I was on Aaron Lail's Mustang dyno, TruDYNOsport in Conover, NC, four days ago with a Benson sleeved Laskey built K20A2 in an '05 EP3, FR top/sidemount manifold with GT42R.


Is that the sort of "REAL high end ----" you see all the time in the real scene, SoCal, which last I checked was land of high crime rates, illegal immigration, ignorance, and rice? How many of these "REAL high end ----" rides have you tuned? Judging by your boy's (your?) inability to afford $22 D-series headgaskets, and your screen name "T3" "A6, " I sorely doubt it.
You want my truthful opinion on that "REAL high end ----" ride above? My shill account, rawr, once said "conspicuous consumption is a sign of immaturity, and nothing more." It's a porky chassis with a poorly designed Hypewagon engine attached to a gearbox that falls apart at stock power levels when lady driven. The intake cam flops around for no discernable reason like a gay man's limp wrist, and to make things worse flops around so slowly it can't even keep up with the cam advance table in until 4th gear at the 300 whp level - which is a ****** and slow power level in a porky chassis. The car has 9700 miles on it, and rides like *** because true to form ALL stock 7th gen Civics come with General Motors inspired McStruts that are blown in under 10K miles. Hyundaidata's K-poop is the saddest sack of kitten ---- I have ever dealt with - there is no tip-in enrichment adjustment, and I suspect that is because it is completely uncontrolled as the stupid thing randomly goes rich or lean of target for a second or so after tip in. The Full-Rice turbo kit is gay; turbo is positioned so that oil drain is compromised and a real air filter can not be fitted. A couple of degrees and a REAL air filter of significant size - one that does not try to suck itself into the turbo at the 350 whp level - could be fitted and you'd only have to trim a little off the underhood support, or shim the hood hinges, to have everything clear (as well as a better initial drop of the oil drain)... but, true to name, Full-Rice HAS TO MAINTAIN an uncut hood for showcar reasons because popped-hood bling cannot be compromised for engineering reasons. At 550whp - Oh, joy! I can not wait!
- a CRX with D16, T3, and boost cranked could strip it by a couple cars in every gear.
There is a reason I don't talk much about cars like this that I tune, and why I keep dyno sheets off the internet, or at least with my name off them; the last thing I need is a bunch of magazine reading ******* up in my grill. Your "REAL high end ----" ride cost, including purchase of car, in the $40-50K neighborhood. It will break $50K by the time the various teething problems have been corrected, and I get paid for my time. I've tuned quite a lot of cars that are blisteringly fast, only one of them had a pile of magazine parts on it, Joey is not impressed.
I find it most interesting to note that your "REAL high end ----" looked like plain ole fashioned dogshit next to what got trailered in while it was strapped to the rollers:

That's about $100K worth of high dollar ---- dropped on a Factory Five replica, it is built to make and withstand 1000 whp if it could get traction. Half that amount is suicidal insanity in a 1900 lb chassis with a cutesy rollbar. The guy who owned it rolled up in a brand new Land Rover and enlcosed trailer, and, while nice enough on a social level, blatantly didn't give a ----. I can say I now know exactly what sort of person buys those hideously expensive R302 blocks.
edit: Widmer of Endyn, one "e", can get fisted. I have less use for him than I have for you, little chewtoy. Show me one single car he's built that has been competitive in any racing classification, turned any significant time at a dragstrip; I can match or beat it and I touch the merest fraction of Honduhs out there. All of the big name drag cars in the 8's and 9's have engines built in regular old fashion clean rooms in garages, and not "sterile ISO9001 ------- labs." No one here is impressed by any lies or disinformation he has told you. :1
HiHomosexual logged on earlier today ~ 6
0 pm EST and had nothing to say to me by way of "real life numbers and technical data." Now:Name: HiProfile
Posts: 99 (0.146 per day)
Position: 0.5 BAR
Date Registered: March 03, 2005, 12:23:27 PM
Last Active: Today at 02
0:52 AM Name: PoweredT3A6
Posts: 13 (0.040 per day)
Position: 0.0 BAR
Date Registered: February 22, 2006, 11:06
5 PM Last Active: Today at 02
0:27 AM Basically, you're either him on a shill account, or he has nothing by way of "real life numbers and technical data" to refute me with and puts a three post punk who can't post **** up to do his chump work for him.
Fucktard, I am a pgmfi.org moderator and did all the OG beta testing of both original OBD0 and OBD1 flavors of freeware boost code before you got your first snip of -----. I've been on and off in college for the last 16 years, and am a good bit more intelligent than the average smurf. I come here because I passionately love cars, and helping people who want to DIY and to learn because they are more like me than magazine reading ******* who buy high end Brand Name parts so they can get e-handjobs on bandwagon forums such as Honda-Tech. You, on the other hand, are just a goddamn homosexual because despite logging in on shill accounts claiming "real life numbers and technical data" you're coming to a grassroots forum asking basic n00b questions about FMUs and basic function of ROM editors that anyone with "real life numbers and technical data" should know.
I was on Aaron Lail's Mustang dyno, TruDYNOsport in Conover, NC, four days ago with a Benson sleeved Laskey built K20A2 in an '05 EP3, FR top/sidemount manifold with GT42R.


Is that the sort of "REAL high end ----" you see all the time in the real scene, SoCal, which last I checked was land of high crime rates, illegal immigration, ignorance, and rice? How many of these "REAL high end ----" rides have you tuned? Judging by your boy's (your?) inability to afford $22 D-series headgaskets, and your screen name "T3" "A6, " I sorely doubt it.
You want my truthful opinion on that "REAL high end ----" ride above? My shill account, rawr, once said "conspicuous consumption is a sign of immaturity, and nothing more." It's a porky chassis with a poorly designed Hypewagon engine attached to a gearbox that falls apart at stock power levels when lady driven. The intake cam flops around for no discernable reason like a gay man's limp wrist, and to make things worse flops around so slowly it can't even keep up with the cam advance table in until 4th gear at the 300 whp level - which is a ****** and slow power level in a porky chassis. The car has 9700 miles on it, and rides like *** because true to form ALL stock 7th gen Civics come with General Motors inspired McStruts that are blown in under 10K miles. Hyundaidata's K-poop is the saddest sack of kitten ---- I have ever dealt with - there is no tip-in enrichment adjustment, and I suspect that is because it is completely uncontrolled as the stupid thing randomly goes rich or lean of target for a second or so after tip in. The Full-Rice turbo kit is gay; turbo is positioned so that oil drain is compromised and a real air filter can not be fitted. A couple of degrees and a REAL air filter of significant size - one that does not try to suck itself into the turbo at the 350 whp level - could be fitted and you'd only have to trim a little off the underhood support, or shim the hood hinges, to have everything clear (as well as a better initial drop of the oil drain)... but, true to name, Full-Rice HAS TO MAINTAIN an uncut hood for showcar reasons because popped-hood bling cannot be compromised for engineering reasons. At 550whp - Oh, joy! I can not wait!
- a CRX with D16, T3, and boost cranked could strip it by a couple cars in every gear.There is a reason I don't talk much about cars like this that I tune, and why I keep dyno sheets off the internet, or at least with my name off them; the last thing I need is a bunch of magazine reading ******* up in my grill. Your "REAL high end ----" ride cost, including purchase of car, in the $40-50K neighborhood. It will break $50K by the time the various teething problems have been corrected, and I get paid for my time. I've tuned quite a lot of cars that are blisteringly fast, only one of them had a pile of magazine parts on it, Joey is not impressed.
I find it most interesting to note that your "REAL high end ----" looked like plain ole fashioned dogshit next to what got trailered in while it was strapped to the rollers:

That's about $100K worth of high dollar ---- dropped on a Factory Five replica, it is built to make and withstand 1000 whp if it could get traction. Half that amount is suicidal insanity in a 1900 lb chassis with a cutesy rollbar. The guy who owned it rolled up in a brand new Land Rover and enlcosed trailer, and, while nice enough on a social level, blatantly didn't give a ----. I can say I now know exactly what sort of person buys those hideously expensive R302 blocks.
edit: Widmer of Endyn, one "e", can get fisted. I have less use for him than I have for you, little chewtoy. Show me one single car he's built that has been competitive in any racing classification, turned any significant time at a dragstrip; I can match or beat it and I touch the merest fraction of Honduhs out there. All of the big name drag cars in the 8's and 9's have engines built in regular old fashion clean rooms in garages, and not "sterile ISO9001 ------- labs." No one here is impressed by any lies or disinformation he has told you. :1
JD thanks for that y8 timing post you made a few weeks ago. I have no use for a y8 but all the det can information really help me out alot.
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
I always molest my stock honda oil pumps...sort of a by-product of my years at my old race shop. Usually end up porting out the pumps a little, and then increasing the spring pressure on the release valve. Mostly I do it for high rpm usage. For every 1,000 rpm your bearings will require a minimum of 10psi of oil pressure. That being said, most stock honda pumps will supply between 15-20psi/1000rpm, that is until near the 5-6,000rpm range. I just don't like the fact of having 74psi at 8,500rpm, so I do some work to the pump to be able to see at least 85psi at that rpm. Granted there will be some friction losses, but I usually run either 10-30 royal purple or 10-30 redline synthetic. Boosted motors I jump up to 15-40, but most boosted motors won't see a constant 8500 abuse, so I usually just do a quick porting job to the housings and call it a day. And I usually clearance my bearings a hair on the loose side, so I can load the crank right away...which is why I run at higher oil pressures. As for the idiot light...by the time you see it, it's too late anyway. At least with the mechanical guage I can see a steady loss and notice if something's not right before serious damage is done.
Originally Posted by mike94se
API is really making this the very few oils to use on these apps 

Originally Posted by HiProfile
BTW the 'replica' doesn't impress me much. They're like fake ***** - feel close to the real deal, but for bragging purposes, there's no substitue. Or maybe its because I've driven a real Shelby. My great-uncle sold the GT500 2 years ago, but he still has the Cobra up near Wausau.
HAHHAHAH ok #1 im ------ stuck in green bay, Wisconsin after getting kicked out of school in orlando, fl. and orlando KILLS the car scene up here, and socal is off the chart. i did the website for beyondredline, biggest import shop in green bay http://www.beyondredline.com look at it, they're all proud that they finally got an awd dyno like 2 months ago, worthless. as far as nice cars up here my buddy has a evo with standard bolt ons and factory 17's and people drool all over his car everyday. he had to join a club in Chicago because the sponsorships for clubs up here are bullshit like Meguiars and other cheap ----. post up the pics of you driving all these cars mr. cheeze ---- because there isn't a nice car on the road in this ------- state, esp now since it is icy and the roads are covered with ---- that the state can't even afford to plow.
And for the fake ***** your bitch prob had a $4,000 job done 4 years ago in mexico, nowadays spend 8k and I know you can't tell the difference.
He has a red 88-91 four door with tuenarboi rimz and a single cam with a blown headgasket because he can't afford the $22 one commands at Honduh.
This was obvious from his first post, why ask him to prove it? No one here cares.
This was obvious from his first post, why ask him to prove it? No one here cares.
after so much words exchange here and there, i still dun believe in maxing out injector to reach max hp. are we talking reliability or posibility here? maxing out injector most likely will shorten up the injector life spend as well. on high boost, u wun even wan a miss injector cycle which could spell out disaster
im opt for bigger injector solution though
im opt for bigger injector solution though


