I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

Motor is a Boosted D16Z6 with vitra pistons, FJ distributors custom length rods, and oem bearings.
Turbo is a TD05 14B right now but will be a 16G in a few months.

What is the best beak in mileage-How far.

Whats best slow easy driving or on jack stands in the garage?

Also I plan on using Royal Purple break in oil and then Royal Purple motor oil. Has anyone used this oil and had bad results?

Has anyone used there assimilable lube?

thanks for the help.

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

I just run like normal for 500 or so miles, change oil/filter, then off I go if everything looks good

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

use the cheapest oil you can find for the break in period, do not use synthetics. I would get the engine running, let it idle until the fans come on, then head to the highway and do some 3rd gear pulls, load the engine at like half throttle and go like 3-6k and let the engine slow you back down to 3k, lather rinse repeat. Break the engine in on low boost (i would go for 7psi or less) and do it TUNED. Change the oil again very soon (50-100) miles. After a few hundred miles of that, go ahead and rape it

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

I agree with this. Break in period depends sometimes. The courser you hone the cylinders, the longer it takes to break in. obvisously manufactures specs. But break it in driving around town/ city driving. No highway and staying the same rpm for long periods of time. No synthetics will mess up the motor, and will need a re-hone or some beating. ow. and retorque your head bolts after like 3 heat cycles.

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

rings are MUCH harder now and wear the cyl honelines faster to the ring face. ------- drive it like you normally would, using more throttle. force will seat that ---- faster than your foot full of ----- lips.

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

I barily let motors warm up before I give them a good beating. Never had one fail either or fail to seat. If theirs a problem it wasn't from being hard on it, It was assembly error.

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

I got my motor fully built, ran a basemap off Hyundata n/a let it warm up, backed it out, "unsprung disc" 4k dump and loaded the motor up the hill. And repeated 4 times. Changes oil and DMC1 came over to do a street tune. CHING CHONG super70 took a ---- on me. Holset H1C on lil more street tune with DMC1, then it went to BLundar and been beating the ---- out of it since. SRSLY

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

Meh. Modern chrome-moly faced compression rings seat in the first 30min or so, regardless of oil type. Cams break in the first 15 min. Bearings arent as big a deal as people think. You could have 10,000 miles on a stock engine and still not have what machinists consider 'broken in'
Non chromemoly rings ala JE do require a strict break in period, bleh.

Make sure its tuned right to begin with, drive it a few hundred miles, change the oil, and if it hasnt popped yet you'll be fine.

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

thanks for all the advice everyone.

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

Pull the injector clips and crank the motor for about 15 seconds, should get some oil flowing without much load on the crank. After that.. rape. It's what I did on my motor, the first I ever built and still going hard.

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

i break in engines like a plan to drive them. if you are going to beat on it, then let it warm up and beat on it. my only rule is to change the oil after 500 miles

Re: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?
 

I change the oil right after the first start up, 500 miles, 3k miles. No matter how well you think your motor is cleaned, it's not. There will also be slight metal shavings from the initial start up. That's why I change the oil right after the 1st start up along with the oil filter.

If you're going to spend money on oil, use Joe Gibbs break-in oil. It's specifically designed for breaking in flat-tappet equipped engines. But I usually use the cheapest autozone oil I can find.

Start the car, let the fans turn on once and make sure there are no leaks. Change oil. Then...either take it to the dyno or start street tuning it. I like to do WOT pulls and increase RPM's incrementally. I start out in 3rd/4th gear depending on the street, and do WOT to 2500, then engine brake. Do that a few times, then increase to 3000rpm and do WOT/engine brake for a few miles. I increase 500 RPM's or so every 10 miles or so, mostly because I'm also doing tuning and making sure everything's fine. I usually stop around 5k(if you have a vtec engine, I raise it to 5k) until I get at least 100 miles on the motor. I just keep doing WOT runs in lower gears and engine braking it. After 100 miles, I increase by 1000RPM increments doing the same thing. Then just increase every 10 miles or so. Change oil and filter at 500 miles. Then at 3k again.

I've broken in and tuned 5 motors this way and never once had a problem. The last motor I broke in was an 11:1 F22 and it had some solid ass compression numbers(280psi across all 4). That motor has probably 5k on it now and still running strong.