Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

Forgo the 14b. From owning both a DSM and a Wrx I can tell you the 14b isn't much bigger than the vf28 is. Also, I've done a 14b on an LS before, they definitely run out of steam quick. VF34's are a sexy piece, but expect to pay around $500-600 for one used. Better bang for the buck would be a big 16g if you want to go with the availability of DSM parts, and there's even a few companies that make b-series manifolds that mate to the 14b/16g foot print. The ultimate cheap 16g would be the newer Evo7/8 16g6 9.8cm^2, but the twin scroll foot print makes diy manifold making a pita. So, to recap...big 16g, or go with the standard t3 60 trim or t3/to4e size.

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

thanks for the advice, there sure is alot of choices!

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

all of the TD05h 16G's that I found on ebay are also around 500 dollars, and it looks like the cold side is clocked right back at the head, i'm sure it would clear with a custom flange that imeadiatly faces it away from the motor, and it looks like it also has an internal waste gate set at 10 lbs?, It's starting to look like a T3 is going to be the most affordable option, do used 16g's in good shape usaully cost that much?

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

Ehh, those are both on the high side. If you can have someone make you a manifold that matches up to the Evo 8's 16g6 those can usually be had with the 9.8cm^2 hotsides for the under $250 mark. Evo guys doing build builds don't want them, and most other people don't want to have to bother with the funky twin-scroll flange. Either that or look for a decent t3...those should be quite a bit cheaper than the IHI's or brand new 16g's.

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

That 16g you listed is ching chong ----. Notice how they covered up the info tag with the stores ID, and it doesn't say TD05H on the front. they're trying to pass it as the real deal.

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

There's a reason Honda guys run Garrett T-series. They're cheap, have more than enough options, are cheap to rebuild, have a good resale value - and are easy to upgrade. 60trim T3 wheel too small for ya? You can upgrade for half the price of the turbo to a 60-1, etc.

IHI turbos suck, unless you enjoy a fast spool. Some of the subie turbos can pump out 300whp, but thats on a car with everything upgraded (jdm heads, etc) besides the turbo. For under $500 you can find a T3 60trim, or for a bit more, a 57trim t3/t04e.

http://www.rcautoworks.com/index.php...iewCat&catId=3

Re: IHI RHB5 VF28, on b20b, in DA
 

If you need a good DSM 16g go hunt around the DSM forums. You can get one in the $200-$300 range and it's a great street turbo for a 4 banger. It wouldn't be my 1st choice, but in the $300 range it's a hard turbo to beat. Once you have a DSM flange on your car you can then upgrade to any of the bigger Mitsu turbos (TD06H 18G and 20G) or a DSM bolt-on Garrett like Precision. I've ran a 16g (MHI EVO3) up to 8k rpm on an 8:5:1 CR motor that was 2.0L and it pulled solid until redline at exactly 20psi. It's a noticeable difference over a 14b and is a bit bigger than say a .48/.42 T3 (45 trim). According to the maps it can muster a few lbs/min more than the Thunderbird .63/.60 as well.

Just make sure it's a genuine 16g. Pay close attention if it says EVO anywhere in the title because knock off EVO3 16G's are rampant and suck a dick. Like the previous guy said, it has to have "TD05H" stamped on the compressor housing or it's a knock-off. Also look at the actuator arm. If it's adjustable it's not a real MHI turbo. Just buy from good feedback people haha. I'd say a Mitsu or a Garrett T3 are you cheapest and easiest options. Even a 14b outflows a small T3 though (like the .48/.42), so if you're on a major budget it's not a bad choice at all. Good luck nga.