sorry matt you did email me rite back i just never check my email i was expecting a call. thanks for the help and ill be in touch with you soon.

by the way my. i installed a vortec 12:1 fmu and it would still lean out rite away in the first few pounds of boost.

i even blocked off the return line with vise grips it held the pressure at 80psi i hit the throttle and it poped withing the first 3 pounds of boost. i have a in cab fuel pressure guage and the pressure didnt drop at all. maybee my injectors are plugged?

no matter what the computer dosent seem to add fuel ever .

im waiting for the quote on magasquit and im thinking its probly the best route at this point .

the stock fuel pump will lose a lot of fuel volume as the pressure increases. with an fmu. an aftermarket high pressure fuel pump is required as there designed to flow more volume at high pressure.

today ii bought a new boost gauge and hooked it up. to my surpeise i was building 15psi of boost at 3000rpm so i took it back in the shop and reved it up a few times the engine build 8psi at 5000rpm just sitting in the shop.

the turbo is suppose to have a 7-8psi wastegate but it building way more. i used and air compressor and with 8 pounds at the air line it didnt even move at all. it took 20psi to get the wastegate to open when it was running in the shop.

the wastegate is adjustable but ive moved that rod in and out and it never opened any earlier than 20 psi.

am i missing somthing here?

to lower the boost you need to lengthen the wastegate rod which decreases the tension on the spring in the actuator. put a vacuum gauge on the wastegate actuator and see if it holds vacuum. if it doesnt hold vacuum then it wont hold pressure causing boost pressure to spike. if this is the case then you need a new wastegate actuator.

ive lenghtend the rod all the way to the point that the rod fits on without haveing to pull the rod. the problem is still nearly the exact same.

to me the problem is in the acuator it takes 20 psi to get it to move , like the spring is way to stiff. this acuator is a gold color that has a adjustable rod but no way to change the spring at all.

the actuator is not repairable. it needs to be replaced if leaking.

i feel stupid for not checking this earlier but it was brand new so i figured it was working. after i got the boost gauge i relized it was makeing way to much boost and then did this as an easy way to look for leaks.

i put 10psi in my air compresor ran it to the actuator with a vacume/boost gauge to a tee and heres the results.

i cut it open carfully and shure enouf i found a hole in the diapham that was leaking.


my new acutuator will be here by friday.

thats what i figured. glad you got it worked out.

even when the boost was to high i knew it was going to need to have the blow off routed back to the intake. it was becomeing way to rich and stalling out when the blow off valve let the metered air out of the charge pipe.

heres the way its all ran as of now.

https://www.homemadeturbo.com/attach...ine=1343780953

this video is just warmed up at idleand a few revs up off idle.

any idea why its not staying at the 14.7 like the factory manual says itll be at?

injectors?

its running better now but is still way lean when it makes boost the engine is still around 17-1 not popping anymore but isnt makeing power at all.

seem like its still starving for fuel