Full Boost at 5500rpm?
Had similar problem. It was the cheap clamps from the hardware store.
Its a given you need to fix your exhaust leak. But heres a tip to check the rest of the plumbing. Leave the engine runing and put your hand over the turbo inlet. THe engine should coughf spluter and die right away. Listen to any hising sounds to locate the leak.
Its a given you need to fix your exhaust leak. But heres a tip to check the rest of the plumbing. Leave the engine runing and put your hand over the turbo inlet. THe engine should coughf spluter and die right away. Listen to any hising sounds to locate the leak.
Originally Posted by chinoy
Had similar problem. It was the cheap clamps from the hardware store.
Its a given you need to fix your exhaust leak. But heres a tip to check the rest of the plumbing. Leave the engine runing and put your hand over the turbo inlet. THe engine should coughf spluter and die right away. Listen to any hising sounds to locate the leak.
Its a given you need to fix your exhaust leak. But heres a tip to check the rest of the plumbing. Leave the engine runing and put your hand over the turbo inlet. THe engine should coughf spluter and die right away. Listen to any hising sounds to locate the leak.
mike
Thanks everyone for all the help. Well my exhaust manifold was leaking a bit and those damn manifold nuts keep coming loose. When I did tighten the nuts back up....that nasty leak sound went away and the turbo spooled a bit faster.
My Internal Wastegate appears to be closed all the way.
And my BOV chatters at idle everyonce in a while... I may add the final washers to keep it from chattering/staying somewhat open.
As far as the plumbing...I use T-bolt clamps, so the clamps aren't the problem. I just think we over-looked COMPLETELY tightening ALL clamps.
Once again, thanks for everything.
My Internal Wastegate appears to be closed all the way.
And my BOV chatters at idle everyonce in a while... I may add the final washers to keep it from chattering/staying somewhat open.
As far as the plumbing...I use T-bolt clamps, so the clamps aren't the problem. I just think we over-looked COMPLETELY tightening ALL clamps.
Once again, thanks for everything.
that 14b flapper was a big issue for me.
i could be boosting down the freeway at 7psi and it'd just suddenly fall off and have to rebuild boost.
a couple taps to the actuator bracket so it was a little further away cleared that right up.
after that i would spike to 9 and drop to 7psi. moved my signal line to the intake mani and it held 8psi like a rock. now i got the mbc on there too and it holds 10psi and spools way sooner. somewhere before 2800-2900 is where it starts spinning.
i could be boosting down the freeway at 7psi and it'd just suddenly fall off and have to rebuild boost.
a couple taps to the actuator bracket so it was a little further away cleared that right up.
after that i would spike to 9 and drop to 7psi. moved my signal line to the intake mani and it held 8psi like a rock. now i got the mbc on there too and it holds 10psi and spools way sooner. somewhere before 2800-2900 is where it starts spinning.
Originally Posted by ****
that 14b flapper was a big issue for me.
i could be boosting down the freeway at 7psi and it'd just suddenly fall off and have to rebuild boost.
a couple taps to the actuator bracket so it was a little further away cleared that right up.
after that i would spike to 9 and drop to 7psi. moved my signal line to the intake mani and it held 8psi like a rock. now i got the mbc on there too and it holds 10psi and spools way sooner. somewhere before 2800-2900 is where it starts spinning.
i could be boosting down the freeway at 7psi and it'd just suddenly fall off and have to rebuild boost.
a couple taps to the actuator bracket so it was a little further away cleared that right up.
after that i would spike to 9 and drop to 7psi. moved my signal line to the intake mani and it held 8psi like a rock. now i got the mbc on there too and it holds 10psi and spools way sooner. somewhere before 2800-2900 is where it starts spinning.
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