Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

Thats right. Im coming over to the dark side I think.
Ive got a sohc zc non vtec in a 88 Crx Si. Ill probably have about 2000 to build the motor with whatever I can and Im looking for 250+whp.

Im new to boost so youll have to bear with me. I was spraying a 65 dry shot on my motor but its just to boring.

Can you guys give me some help and some stuff?

I know I can make all the tubing going to the intercooler and to the t/b. But I dont know much about actualy turbo's/

Like Im looking for high h/p (250+) so Im gonna need new forged rods/pistons. But when I take my motor apart, Can I just give it a little hone, crosshatch and isntall the new ones? Ive never really torn into a Honda motor before.

Ive only sprayed about 3 bottles on the motor so I dont think anything will be warped. Also can I use the stock head while running high boost?

How much boost could I run with some decent fuel managment and injectors? 15psi? Car will be daily driven. Maybe I shoud try and squeeze in some head work?

ANy advise will be LOVED

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

A lot of Q's that can be answered if you read the FAQ.
You will need to hone when putting new pistons and rings...problaby a bore and hone job if you getting a bit oversized pistons. and new rod bearings also and notch the block if you get eagle rod's... 15 psi with forged rod's and forged pistons is ok I did it with stock internals, but it also depends what kinda turbo you have.....

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

Oh really some pistons you have to cut the block for them to fit? Can it be done with an angel grinder or does it have to be precision. eagle the only company? I was looking at arias 8.5:1 compression pistons

I would just do a quick hone and crosshatch so I dont think id need .020 over pistons, because stock rings are good for .010 over right?

15psi with a nice t3/t4 would get me easily 250+ right?
I can even get cheap dyno time form a guy at my second job who does it on his second job

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

You don't need to cut the block for pistons ::).
For Eagle Rod's or Crower Econo Biller or SCAT ROD's you will need to notch the block at the bottom of the cilinder.....so that the rod won't hit. You can also get .10 pistons...I would get some overbore pistons..... I don't like piston slap . A T3/T4E will get you to 250 hp....A T4B compressor will do also. If you don't want to go over 300 hp I would just get a T3 48/60

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

lol :P I didnt mean notch for pistons, meant the rods. I havent decided on a rod but Ill try an stay away form those companies just to avoid the hassle.

Ive been reading a junk load on here and turbod16, think I can pretty much piece together a kit. Only part I dont get is fuel management.

What kind of things can I do on a budget to my non vtec motor? Say I get a Zdyne ecu or something, will they just give me a ecu with a basemap that my car will start with and then I go to a dyno and they make tune it to perfection

Or can a turbo timer play around with a/f settinsgs.

I guess Id need a few gauges as well. Oil pressure, air fuel and boost level

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

Heres the 8.5:1 Pistons Im lookin at

Arias piston set for D16
* Low compression 75.05 mm bore
* comes with piston rings, locks, and wrist pins
* about 8.5:1 in D16A6 motor and 9:1 in D16 SOHC VTEC engines.

Complete set $420 shipped.

http://www.exospeed.com/pictures/arias3320500box1.jpg

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

250whp is really that hard of a target to reach.

use the search button, and you will get the drift of what people use in there setups.

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

I wanna go pretty big with the turbo I think, but they cost a shat load

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

a t3 0.43 or even a t0.60 is more than capable of reaching that target. ;)

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

I dont really get what those number mean. I copied this from a for sale post on parts trader, need to know what they mean,and if its a good turbo for my setup

T04S T3/60-1 Turbo on a d16 motor..

The turbine a/r is .48 it spools quickly , and the compressor housing is a .70 a/r which flows 60 lb/min

Also how much would this turbo sell for? May buy it but he doesnt show what he wants for it

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

It seems we rarely post all the info your gonna need, we'd rather make you do the hard work (research) but you don't seem like one of those "new jackass kids" :D Here you go:

Block notching for pretty much any aftermarket rod is going to be mandatory:
www.theoldone.com (D series engine building tips)

Turbohf has rods and pistons on the first page of classifieds for a good price. Not sure the differences of regular D vs. ZC if any.

9.1 compression is fine.

Machine Work will be the majority of the money involved. (That was my case) :-\

Stock rebuilt (cleaned, new seals) head will be fine.

Change rods, pistons, bearings, and use arp head studs.

Pick up a 60/63 t3 turbo off an old t-bird 87ish at the junkyard. 60/63 is the manual t-bird. 48.60 is automatic. Get the manual for big numbers.

All of my secret motor specs: :-\

All bearing clearances (rod and crank) .015
piston to wall clearance .004
ring gaps .17

1gen dsm blow off valve
1gen dsm turbo fuel injectors
make your own piping
order a shitbird manifold (classifieds)
custom coach intercooler (speedpartsrus.com)
use the s-afc for fuel management to 10psi. (At this point you will be in the beginning stages of wanting to flirt with turboedit) (Engine Management)
2.5" or larger exhaust. Bigger is better.

I think that's it. Thats pretty much what I've done with $2000. -Steve

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

Sweet, thanks for the link and info.

I dunno if I want to buy a used turbo though. Or if I do Ill be looking to get one that has been rebuilt recently.

Also Ive got pretty much everything know except the engine management. What about spark? Do I have to get an aftermarket MSD setup?

Also whats with this S-AFC, what is it? Expensive? Easy to tune for beginners?

Ive rebuilt a few 305 and 350's with my dad so I know how to check clearances and proper bearing install/removal.

I most likely will be doing some headwork if I can find a place locally or maybe even just pick up a built head.

Thanks for th info, and no Im not one of those new jackasses lol, been on Honda-Tech since 02, just never got into boost.

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

Used turbo = $80ish New turbo= at least $350 for anything good. We all run used turbo's, give it a try before you drop all that cash on a new one.

S-Afc made by Apex'i is a piggyback fuel controller that allows you to +/-50% fuel to the engine. Your basically putting larger injectors and scaling them down with the afc to make the car run. Runs about $200-$250 and is very easy to opperate. Generally kept within 10psi, but I've had mine up to 15psi with afc as management.

An MSD BTM is a good timing retarder per lbs of boost, but it isn't 100% neccessary. Some just retard 3 or 4 degrees and call it a day. The MSD is a better way of course.

We're just going to reffer all new members to this link from now on. hahaha. Welcome to HMT. I wonder what they would say if you asked these kinds of questions over on HT. :-X

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

lol I did ask the same questions over there.

"If your a noob just dont boost your car, we dont want you in the crowd"
"Turbo cars are for people with knowledge, if you dont know, dont do it"

Like, everyone started off not knowing a thing about it had to learn somewhere, maybe @ 18 Im a little slow I dont know.

I would be looking to run around 15psi I think though. Just forged block and balanced crank all rebuilt with new bearings and rings, a little head work.

But if you look at the specs of the turbo I posted a few up, would that be a good turbo? How mcuh would it cost and would it be usuable (to long spool, to large, to small)

The numbers seem alright. I think I can do most of this myself as long as I learn how to wire some ---- lol, coming from v8's that only need air/spark/fuel to run.

S-AFC, is this just a unit that goes on my dash? Or does it replace my entire ecu? Ive got a pg7 right now.

Dam, so many things to learn. I wont be piecing until fall anyways and rebuilding/installing in the winter

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

No, you don't say. :D :D I changed my mind too. I'm too damn smart to be talking to you. :P ::)

The afc is just a small piggyback deal that wires into your ecu's harness. Looks like an electronic boost controller of sorts.
As far as the turbo, most of us don't disect compressor maps or anything. We generally stick to 3 or 4 variations of turbo's (off stock cars of course) that will achieve our goals. You can go as far as you'd like, but these are the most common turbo's you'll find here:

RHB5- small. Fast spool. For smaller motors. Not much of a drag turbo. More of road racing I'd say.

T25- Eclipse turbo. Fast spool on sohc's. good for road racing and such.

14B- Never dealt with this one. I think it's similar to a t25.

T3 42/48- Good spool with some high horse potential. Not the greatest for drag.

T3 48/60- A tad of lag (full boost on D16 about 4000) Can be a really good part time drag/higher power turbo.

T3 60/63 More lag than previous, Good for Street Dragger.

I hope without being all knowledgable I'm giving a "basic" understanding of what we like to use. I think the 60/63 at 15psi should get you really close to 300 if not actually hit it. Someone here ran 302hp on a D at 16psi. It's on the "turbo projects" page, but I can't remember the name of him. That will be a good place for you to look at some of the other setups. First shoot for 10psi on the hack. Get all of the parts that you'll need to go higher, but by the time you have the kit in and runnign at 10psi, I'll be asking you questions. I promise. ;) -Steve

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

I'm just suprised you never blew your old motor running dry shots of nitrous.

I think I'm gonna let Steve field all the answers for the rest of this thread 8)

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

Blew my motor with a 65 shot? Hell no, compression is still 195 in all 4 like it was when I bought it. Burns no oil

Back to the turbo selection, the T3 48/60 what car does this come on stock? Also what does the 48 and 60 mean? 48=compressor wheel? 60 =

Arent there usually 3 numbers

I was thinking about running smaller boost but if I was only gonna do 10 psi, it wouldnt be worth it to go forged internals, low compression rods.

8.5:1 compession pistons would be great for that turbo right? I always thought the lower the better and more power you could make

Thanks again

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

The lower the better, to a certain extent.
Lower compression ratio = you can run more boost on the same fuel = you'll make more power.
At 20psi boost on pump fuel you will make more power with 8:1 compression than 9:1 because your spark timing can be more aggressive.

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

hey, I offered assistance on HT not smartass remarks! (crx_88_si) lol!

Welcome to HMT you're new obsession.

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

lol You got a lot of posts over here 2.

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

ya I've been on here for almost a year now. and on HT there's just so much traffic that it's easy to rack up posts helping people out.

Re:Former Nitrous Guy.$2000 Limit, Make Me WANNA Boost!!
 

when you take your block apart don't be stupid and waste money on pistons you don't even know will work, and don't go into it blindly. I tried measuring my own cylinder walls and I couldn't do it for ----. just drop your block and crank off at the machine shop (bare, they'll probably charge extra if they have to tear your block down for you) and have them measure everything and call you to tell you what's up before they do any machine work, that's what I did. go to a few mechanics shops and ask which machine shops they trust, I went to one recommended by the automotive school I was going to and I got a fat discount for being a student. once you know what size your cylinders will be after the machine work then you can order pistons.

t3 source breakdown:

42.48 saabs for sure, probably volvos as well, I got one from a chrysler lebaron, the lebaron and the dodge daytona both have the 42.48 with a weird flange, but it can have one hole drilled to make it regular.
48.60 automatic t-birds
60.63 manual t-birds

at this point it's best for you to just read for a couple months before you start buying stuff. read alot, decide what you can get to meet your goals and what you need to get to meet your goals. I've been a member on here for a year and a half and I still haven't put my kit together, I'm just lazy though.