Hrm, that is not very reassuring... The ECU can be "run" without a chip thought right?

 

Yes, just pull the jumper. J1

 

Fix that tube between your upper charge pipe to the valve cover or just quick make a catch can and be done with it. Those real Type X's or Rotas?

 

rotas, i am not sure what the real-deal vs knockoff ethics are on this forum. But personally i cant spend 1k$ on wheels that are used and nearly 10 years old. These are rotas, and brand new for half the price

 

Get a new chip or try a new one, they're pretty cheap.

 

i just run a hose down to the ground off my valve cover for the pcv

 

i got one on order. Still no spark, does anyone have a known good distributor that they could loan me?

 

its most likley a chip problem, if it ran before, i doubt your dizzy went bad

 

id try running a stock unchipped ecu. i also noticed your either runnnig an odb1 d16 or a mini-me. did you have the motor running good before the turbo? did you swapo the tps wires? are the two white wires from the distributor in the right place

 

I have found the problem, and the car now runs & boosts x10. (I wish HMT had the :thumbup The problem was a bad distributor, either having the chip in backwards fried it or it was just going bad anyway and the poor running put the nail in the coffin. Onto a new problem/Questions/issues:

The Bov i have is a cheap ebay RVM (purple greddy knockoff). I havent been really pushing wot or super high rpm but... when i close the throttle after boosting the turbo/bov is making a fluttering sound similar to a hks super sequential valve. I am led to believe that the bov isnt opening but rather the compressor is releasing the air from the charge pipe, no? So i disassemble the bov and remove one of the two springs, I have also backed the set screw out quite a bit. I still am not positive that the valve is opening all the way (still fluttering), any easy way to check? (keep in mind the car is only running low boost ~6psi).

Thanks for all the help so far