Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
After getting thru some headgasket issues, things are looking better. ARP studs and graphite headgaskets seem to do the trick. The tune was done by SGS automotive (formerly kauffmans). The car is really running nicely now.
5.0 motor explorer intake GT40P (explorer) heads 42# fuel injectors Pro M Maf flipped shorty headers IHI RHB5 turbos (t-bird version) approx 11 psi boost bosch bovs HP intercooler http://www.insanemustangs.com/forums...finaldyno.jpeg http://www.insanemustangs.com/forums...046/Slide1.JPG http://insanemustangs.com/forums/vbp...5&d=1168548811 |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
More pics :6
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Good numbers.
JP |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Here are some more. The last two are mockups on my old motor.
http://www.insanemustangs.com/forums...6/DSC00464.JPG http://www.insanemustangs.com/forums...6/DSC00463.JPG http://www.insanemustangs.com/forums...Driverside.JPG http://www.insanemustangs.com/forums...0046/front.JPG Erich |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Originally Posted by jagojon3
More pics :6
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
badass :D
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Nice, looks like its gonna be a lot of fun. Looks very stealthy.
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Wow that is a crazy setup, must have took some time to plumb that bitch. Niiiice numbers and yeah
Originally Posted by mike94se
RIpper vids :y
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Run against this spic ::)
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=74676.0 |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Sort of double plumbing on it. But on the other hand, the headers are just stockers flipped over and drilled to align-that helps. Also, they are stainless so you can easily weld on em.
I took some videos driving around but I should have used a smaller setting for posting. This car is pretty quiet. The bovs are the loudest thing by far. It is pretty violent when you hit the gas but still quiet motor and exhaustwise. I should delete the mufflers and just run thru the cats. It still looks like a 4 cyl other than the tires (it was a 4 cyl so it has the cheap interior and the lx badges). Erich |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
---- yes...
stock bottom end? :o |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Man that setup is ------- beast!! :y
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
---- ya i was wondering what ever happened to this project.Def get some vids that looks like it should be nasty quick ride.Does the 4banger Stangs have a smaller rear end?Looks great nice and clean under the hood :y
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
------ aye, that things a beast, I wont panty ripper vids and time sheets :y
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Sweet
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
rediculous!!!!
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Great job, specs on the motor? Theres a few builds on this site that I love and this is definitely one of them.
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
1 Attachment(s)
Yeah, the 4 cyl had a 7.5 inch non posi rear. I changed that out for an 8.8 from a 5.0.
The motor is stock-ish. Stock bottom end, rods, cam. Probe pistons but not fancy ones, just forged about 9.2:1 compression. The heads are the ones that they used on explorers after there were no more 5.0 mustangs. They are consideribley better than stock mustang heads but nothing fancy. The intake on there now is also an explorer-which is the same design (but cast for cheapness) as the GT40 tubular one and the 93 cobra intake. It is WAY better than the stock mustang intake. The throttlebody is from an explorer so I had to cut up the throttle linkage and welds some stuff on and modify the throttleposition sensor. Also had to file out the spacer between the throttlebody and intake to make it line up (spacer was mustang 60 mm enlarged to 65 mm to match explorer gear). This setup was making decent power before the tune and the explorer intake-398 hp/490 torque but the a/f was off scale (below 10.0) during the torque peak. Attached is a comparison. I had some wheel spin on the dyno with my street tires in the old run-that is what makes the ugly curve. I have a few things I need to fix on there. I have the air temp sensor in the wrong place currently. It is reading way high so the tune is compensating. Timing is getting pulled out. Hopefully if I fix that and switch from a 190 t0 180 thermostat, I can run a little more timing. The power was really going up as timing was added. Erich |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
hell yeah man. awesome HMT setup :6
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
---- Yeah...Time to split the block in two right? Crank it uP ;D
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Supposedly 500 rwhp is the upper safe limit. I know some people running more but also have seen some split blocks at higher levels. This motor is not going to rev that much (below 6000) so that may help a bit.
Erich |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
holy crap. i love it. :o :y
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Gosh the power drops off early. I was under the impression 5.0's could rev and were revved higher than that but I dont see why you would. That is a ridiculous amount of torque, well done.
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
That thing's dyno chart looks like a teenager having sex - reaches its peak prematurely, and don't last long. :8
J/k, must be crazy on the street. 2x the torque of built b18's for most of the powerband. Eat any good cars on the road lately? Bet they didn't expect it. |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
I have a couple HT12 (FC3S) wheels that I could throw on those shafts. The only thing is that I'd need the center cartridge, compressor housings, and turbines. The T Bird wheels measure 52.5mm outter diameter and 39 mm inner diameter. Each HT12 measures 57mm outter and 42mm inner. The difference in turbine shaft is .25 mm so I'd have to mill the compressor wheel to accept the RHB5 shaft then throw the center cratridge on a lathe to to take a few mm from the outter perimeter of the seal plate. Mathematcially it works out to be around a 30% difference per each compressor wheel, so you'd have much more power at the same if not lower boost levels. If you want more consistancy with those turbos, drill a small hole in the actuator that attaches to the flapper. Then drill another hole on the wastegate diaphragm plate. You'll need a spring or two to experiement with and an small air pump for find out which spring works best. The stock spring rate on those is 8.7 psi, so anythign above that and the pressure wills tart to force the valve open thereby dumping your boost when you need it most, higher rpm. You can use the air pump to figure out when, where, and how long each different spring is changing the spring rate in the diaphragm itself. It's a homebrew way to fix an otherwise shitty wastegate. Or just swap a few T3 actuators behind there and make sure the rods line up. The T3 are 14 psi for the most part. The RHb5 gates have a max of 14 psi, meanign they should never see higher than that or else they'lls tart to wear prematurely. This is straight from the Mazda and Ford workshop manual.
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Originally Posted by St.Taint
I have a couple HT12 (FC3S) wheels that I could throw on those shafts. The only thing is that I'd need the center cartridge, compressor housings, and turbines. The T Bird wheels measure 52.5mm outter diameter and 39 mm inner diameter. Each HT12 measures 57mm outter and 42mm inner. The difference in turbine shaft is .25 mm so I'd have to mill the compressor wheel to accept the RHB5 shaft then throw the center cratridge on a lathe to to take a few mm from the outter perimeter of the seal plate. Mathematcially it works out to be around a 30% difference per each compressor wheel, so you'd have much more power at the same if not lower boost levels. If you want more consistancy with those turbos, drill a small hole in the actuator that attaches to the flapper. Then drill another hole on the wastegate diaphragm plate. You'll need a spring or two to experiement with and an small air pump for find out which spring works best. The stock spring rate on those is 8.7 psi, so anythign above that and the pressure wills tart to force the valve open thereby dumping your boost when you need it most, higher rpm. You can use the air pump to figure out when, where, and how long each different spring is changing the spring rate in the diaphragm itself. It's a homebrew way to fix an otherwise shitty wastegate. Or just swap a few T3 actuators behind there and make sure the rods line up. The T3 are 14 psi for the most part. The RHb5 gates have a max of 14 psi, meanign they should never see higher than that or else they'lls tart to wear prematurely. This is straight from the Mazda and Ford workshop manual.
Erich |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Now, I'm really curious. Would this compressor wheel swap make the IHI equivalent to the bigger Tbird .63/.60 t3s? Actually, I never really got a good feel about how the IHIs compare to the smaller 0.48 Tbird T3s. It would be nice to flow more air higher up in the rpm range. They do die off fast.
Erich |
Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
simple setup, great numbers. cooll.... :o :o
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Re: Finally got my DIY twin turbo notch tuned
Here is the stock Warner Ishi wheel on the center cartridge:
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/1686/dsc031048nl.jpg I'd have to remove the outter perimeter by the seal plate: http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/5498/vj1120su.jpg This is using an RHB6 57mm wheel for reference: http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/8126/dsc031050yr.jpg See how it would rub? http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/5558/dsc031066fe.jpg Here is a 57mm wheel back to back with a 52.5mm RHB5 VC32 (T Bird) wheel http://img306.imageshack.us/img306/9083/dsc031078qz.jpg Here is the actual HT12 wheel: http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/4400/dsc031071fh.jpg http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/2351/dsc031092di.jpg http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/6954/dsc031101cq.jpg And here's the HT12 wheel in a T Bird housing: http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/9184/dsc031224lw.jpg T Bird wheel = 52.5mm outter and 39mm inner, HT12 wheel measures 57mm outter and 40mm inner. It's an interesting swap indeed but for your power and engine, I'd probably just go with a few standard T3's. Either 60 trim compressor (T3 Turbocoupe) with a .48 A/R exhaust side or .63 if you were going for max power. Here is somewhat of a compressor map: http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/7...ompmaps8oz.jpg Hitachi doesn't publish their specs. Unfortunately you can only guesstimate using the RX7 hp vs boost pressure. Each compressor wheel with standard turbine (which is almost exactly the same size as the RHb5 turbine that you have) is good for airflow in the 220 hp range on average 14-16 psi boost pressure. This same VJ11/HT12 hybrid was used on a 2.2 sohc engine making 230 hp on 10 psi. Even so, I'd look for actual Garrett T3's. I have two brand new genuine Garrett To4B S trims but they have dual volute T4 exhaust housings. Guaranteed Garrett and will come shipped in a Garrett box but the exhaust housigns won't fit your manifold unless you go to the standard t3 5 bolt and have it ported to accept a Stage 3 (standard T4) turbine. |
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