E-Cut Downpipes! Do They Last? How Can I Make It Effiecient? Emissions Friendly!
Originally Posted by W O T
One thing I dont get, I made this butterfly plate fairly thin, maybe 1/16"
I dont unterstand how they are able to pivot 90 degrees and not catch on the walls, how does it work?
Also how am I going to be able to connect a rod through the sleeve and connect it to one side of the butterfly and it will spin freely
I dont unterstand how they are able to pivot 90 degrees and not catch on the walls, how does it work?
Also how am I going to be able to connect a rod through the sleeve and connect it to one side of the butterfly and it will spin freely
No pics, its just 2 pieces of metal right now
What I think will work is this, Im jujst trying to figure out how to get the buterfly to spin exactly true inside the bore.
I think if I take say a 1/2" dowell that is 4-5" long, the dowel is .500" inches thick, if I throw it on the mill and with an endmill machine down a 3" portion of the dowel down to .250", exactly half, the flat spot will go across the entire inside bore of the sleeve
Then I can drill a hole through the side of the sleeve in the exact center of the diameter (which has about 1/2" sidewalls) with a 1/2" bit, throw the dowel flat side into the bore, slide down the butterfly against the flat dowel inside the bore, attach it to the dowel with maybe some m5 allen bolts
This will work right? It will keep the butterfly exactly on center when it spins right?
BTW- I measured the clearance from buterfly to sleeve last night and I can BARELY fit a .005" feeler gauge in there, so its a fairly close fit eh
Need some one to tell me if this works or not, or what needs to be improved
What I think will work is this, Im jujst trying to figure out how to get the buterfly to spin exactly true inside the bore.
I think if I take say a 1/2" dowell that is 4-5" long, the dowel is .500" inches thick, if I throw it on the mill and with an endmill machine down a 3" portion of the dowel down to .250", exactly half, the flat spot will go across the entire inside bore of the sleeve
Then I can drill a hole through the side of the sleeve in the exact center of the diameter (which has about 1/2" sidewalls) with a 1/2" bit, throw the dowel flat side into the bore, slide down the butterfly against the flat dowel inside the bore, attach it to the dowel with maybe some m5 allen bolts
This will work right? It will keep the butterfly exactly on center when it spins right?
BTW- I measured the clearance from buterfly to sleeve last night and I can BARELY fit a .005" feeler gauge in there, so its a fairly close fit eh
Need some one to tell me if this works or not, or what needs to be improved
If you get an electric one you have to make sure its a worm gear style because if its not when you press the button to open it, if you hold it to long the motor will keep going and burn its self out. the BEST e-cutout available right can be gotten from these guys right here
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/...oduct_list&c=4
there pricey but you get what you pay for.
Im curius about these cable ones though. How does it work? You just pull the cabel to open it? How does it stay open/closed?
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/...oduct_list&c=4
there pricey but you get what you pay for.
Im curius about these cable ones though. How does it work? You just pull the cabel to open it? How does it stay open/closed?
I havent figured out yet how Im gonna get it to stay open but Im going to utilize the system off of a stock throttle body to keep it shut
It will be cable operated and probably ghetto, but itll be machanical and wont fail
It will be cable operated and probably ghetto, but itll be machanical and wont fail
Anybody have any info if a .005" gap will seal?
Im sure carbon would build up eventually, I dont know how big of a gap it would leak from
Im sure carbon would build up eventually, I dont know how big of a gap it would leak from
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Chris Harris
Turbo Parts For Sale
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Aug 24, 2006 01:49 PM



