if i am using a 2.5 downpipe does it REALLY help if i switched to 3 inches CRUSH BENT exhaust?? or once it is 2.5 it always flows like a 2.5??
reason is that my ---- dues in smog really soon and i really don`t want to spend 3 bills to get passed.
and since my downpipe was shortened by the muffler guy to weld on a 1 piece 3 inches exhaust, i am gonner have to remove the whole thing anyway.

SO, i am thinking to get a 2.5 ebay catback, which is mendral(sp :P) bent, came with a resnator and it gives me room to put on a rear sway bar, while it also gives me more ground clearence.

so 3 inches crush bent VS 2.5 manderal bent...
suggestion guys

EDIT:
mysetup.
T3/04e, 50 trim .48.60
D16Z6 with rod and piston.
i REALLY wanted to hit 300whp, i know it`s not the best turbo that i am using, but right now i am running 13 psi daily and butt dyno only show 200 ish whp but A LOT of tork

 

3" crush bend to me is technically 2.5 mandrel bent because of the restrictions the crush bends cause. you be fine with the 2.5" mandrel bent.

 

Go with whatevers cheaper, would be close to the same, but I see the 3" serving a little more

 

that`s what i through

 

i had a slightly bigger turbo and hit 251.9 at 16psi. it woulda been higher but i was having ignition trouble.

i now realize that 300 hp is alot. i drove my car at 250 ish hp and itsa sick

 

hotrex what turbo u running

 

OMG i just relized the infamous HOTREX reply to my topic.

 

t3/t04b .48/60 57 trim wheel

 

at 3rd gear what rpm do u see full boost man.

mine lags like a bitch

 

im going to be doing that setup on my y8...lol yea ...stealthmode style bitches. he was hitting like 235 @ 16.5psi untuned.... (stealth w/ .48/.60)....


i can't wait to pick that ---- up....

should be sick like a ----------ah

300whp in a crx is enought o go out and play on the freeway with

man ---- these d series im going to just get stealth's block then build up a ls/vtec or something and boost it to 25psi and aim for like 500whp so i can REALLY go and play on the freeway