DA-T biatch
#1
DA-T biatch
Yawn, another one. Well, it is my first setup, not bad for a penpusher that was not even able to change oil 2 years ago. For sure it won't be my last setup.
1992 teg sedan RS
B18A or B (no V-TAK yo)
266 XXX km
Stock everything
HMT fiberglass fuel tank job
HP goodies
T3 60 trim (Blaast)
Nitrous jet oil restrictor
2.25" charge pipes
NGK BRE7's (or something like that) spark plugs gapped 0.030"
Ching chong intercooler (Stephen)
Truck radiator hose couplers
Enough swears to go to hell 3 times.
Happy mix of worm gear and T bolts clamps (Parker store)
Donald's HKS knock off BOV and flange, boost gauge (blingest part of the whole setup, and riciest sound on the block, works very well)
Vibrant transition couplers (2.25" to 2.5" and 2.25" to intake)
RX7 460's + inline resistors
EVO fuel pump (GSknight)
6 puck clutch and flywheel from Adam (weirtech), yet to install.
TIAL WG 35mm (hybrid_eg), divorced
Of course, Xenocron's best = LC1, chipping kit, crome pro, Ostrich emu
2.5" homebrewed DP and exhaust pipes
Toilet WG log manifold (shittiest design), flanges from LSD.
Pieced together oil feed and return on a multilayer composite coated pan (JB weld FTW)
Gutted PCV valve, breather filter, floor as a catch can.
jon-DA-LS-4.bin (still to be tuned, but works very well), WG spring at 6 psi, Donald's MBC waiting, will be tuned to 9-10 psi shortly.
That is about it, now pics
You prolly know this little guy (repost from fab forum)
Sewer exhaust (however still stealthy noise level)
Log manifold
WG dump (blows in the wheel well), Jiffy pop knock sensor tapped in head. Spools at 2300-2600 rpm, fully spooled at 3000 (be careful in first gear)
My cousin came to help me
Overall
Advice to other noobs:
Use standard size pipes for charge pipes (2.0" or 2.5", not 2.25", 'cause homedepot couplers are cheaper that vibrant's)
Buy from reputable sellers (HMT sponsors)
Plan what you need to buy, don't be impulsive
Take your time
Practice welding before doing your first manifold, practice, practice, practice
Test your welds with water or else
Turbo won't spool if engine is not under load (like neutral revving it) stupid moron! I thought there was something wrong with my setup
Hydraulic shops are a good supply of fittings
When you think you've read it all (wikis, forums ...) then you know nothing yet unless you put you put your hands into it.
Up north, if you work on a 90's car that hasn't run in a while like mine, rust is an issue when removing and installing parts (rusted bolts, seized alternator and brakes, breaking studs etc...)
Hats off to founders and mods of this website, special thanks to xenocron.
Adios
1992 teg sedan RS
B18A or B (no V-TAK yo)
266 XXX km
Stock everything
HMT fiberglass fuel tank job
HP goodies
T3 60 trim (Blaast)
Nitrous jet oil restrictor
2.25" charge pipes
NGK BRE7's (or something like that) spark plugs gapped 0.030"
Ching chong intercooler (Stephen)
Truck radiator hose couplers
Enough swears to go to hell 3 times.
Happy mix of worm gear and T bolts clamps (Parker store)
Donald's HKS knock off BOV and flange, boost gauge (blingest part of the whole setup, and riciest sound on the block, works very well)
Vibrant transition couplers (2.25" to 2.5" and 2.25" to intake)
RX7 460's + inline resistors
EVO fuel pump (GSknight)
6 puck clutch and flywheel from Adam (weirtech), yet to install.
TIAL WG 35mm (hybrid_eg), divorced
Of course, Xenocron's best = LC1, chipping kit, crome pro, Ostrich emu
2.5" homebrewed DP and exhaust pipes
Toilet WG log manifold (shittiest design), flanges from LSD.
Pieced together oil feed and return on a multilayer composite coated pan (JB weld FTW)
Gutted PCV valve, breather filter, floor as a catch can.
jon-DA-LS-4.bin (still to be tuned, but works very well), WG spring at 6 psi, Donald's MBC waiting, will be tuned to 9-10 psi shortly.
That is about it, now pics
You prolly know this little guy (repost from fab forum)
Sewer exhaust (however still stealthy noise level)
Log manifold
WG dump (blows in the wheel well), Jiffy pop knock sensor tapped in head. Spools at 2300-2600 rpm, fully spooled at 3000 (be careful in first gear)
My cousin came to help me
Overall
Advice to other noobs:
Use standard size pipes for charge pipes (2.0" or 2.5", not 2.25", 'cause homedepot couplers are cheaper that vibrant's)
Buy from reputable sellers (HMT sponsors)
Plan what you need to buy, don't be impulsive
Take your time
Practice welding before doing your first manifold, practice, practice, practice
Test your welds with water or else
Turbo won't spool if engine is not under load (like neutral revving it) stupid moron! I thought there was something wrong with my setup
Hydraulic shops are a good supply of fittings
When you think you've read it all (wikis, forums ...) then you know nothing yet unless you put you put your hands into it.
Up north, if you work on a 90's car that hasn't run in a while like mine, rust is an issue when removing and installing parts (rusted bolts, seized alternator and brakes, breaking studs etc...)
Hats off to founders and mods of this website, special thanks to xenocron.
Adios
#5
Re: DA-T biatch
Originally Posted by bitchasscracker
what is a KM
For the fiberglass fuel tank patch, tank is rusted and seeping. All junkyard tanks are the same (winter driving since 1992), Brand new tanks are around 250$. Fiberglass repair kit cost me around 10$. I only patched it, it is better now, but when I'll have more time, I'll wrap it up completely in fiberglass.
#10
Re: DA-T biatch
RS sedans are the best of those 4drs. The others just had such crowded engine bays (same with the coupes) from the engines I've pulled and sold out of many of them.
Great work with it!
I hope to see some videos posted up soon.
Great work with it!
I hope to see some videos posted up soon.