Got a buddy with a B18B who wants some more power out of it. I'm thinkin probably a T25 or a 14B will be just fine and cheap enough.

I read that the rod bolts are rather weak though and like to suck. He doesn't want to rip this motor apart and if he going to do that he said he'd rather opt for the B18C or I might be able to convince to do a full build up on a B20

My question is for those of you who have worked with the B18B stock and pushed some power out of it - how far can I take this thing until its gonna take a ---- on me? Is this idea bad overall? Is it true people have snapped rod bolts just from doing the head swap?

Basic 14B / crome / jrc small core setup.

Thanks for any input.

 

10psi

 

People have blown ---- up doing less than headswaps

The T25 will be way too small and inefficient, the 14b is a step in the right direction, but a babystep none the less. You could get away with running a 14bt, but anything higher than about 14 psi and you're running out of the peak efficiency range. Run a larger T3 if you can and you'll be happy. Conservative tune could net you about 250WHP, but people have pushed them much higher and farther than that, but you don't sound like you want to push the envelope.

 

When he came to me he said he didn't wanna spend a ton of money and he wanted to be on the safe side that the car would last another 2 years with 10k on it a year. He isn't looking to make any huge numbers, but would like it to be a lot more "peppy". So you really don't think a 14b would be a good choice for that eh? Thats kind of a bummer.

And yeah, I know people have blown ---- up doing less than headswaps.

 

YOu would almost be just as dangerous running a 14b as a small to medium T3.

A 14b is going to be uneffiecient and create alot more heat then a properly sized turbo. Go with a t3. AT LEAST a .42/.48, but I would highly recommend a .48/.60. Also that way if he want to upgrade and run higher boost(He will, that why boost i lie a drug, once yu get a taste your hooked!!) it easier why a T3 series turbo.

He says he wants to be safe, that's what I said until the first time I drove my car with a 14b at 5.5psi and ---- it, 9psi right away and I will never drive a non-boosted car again!

 

Rod bolts snap in most cases from overevving the botton-end. I guess if you swap on a VTEC head and try to hit 9k then yea they would break, otherwise I don't really see it happening......ARP makes beffy replacement rod bolts if you're worried about it,but if you're in the bottom-end you should just replace/refresh all while you're there. At any rate I recommend a moderately sized T3 ~.48/60 hot/cold respectively. You should be able to squeeze 230whp out of it at are modest boost level. That will also give you a little room to grow if/when you build a bottom-end for it. A 14b will do just fine if you want faster spool at the cost of some power, howeverthey run out of breath pretty quick when you start turning up the boost. LS engines love the boost and are pretty forgiving when it comes to tuning them. Just remember to keep it tuned right and you won't have any problems.

 

ya i dont think its as much hp as the rpm, tensile strenght owns

 

A 14b would def. make it more "peppy". I've done the approx. math and you'd still be in or around the 14b's peak efficiency range at about 10-12psi give or take. I say go for it, but be warned that it doesn't leave room for more power, and you may (like many, many MANY people) get greedy, so be warned. In any case if you go with a 14b there a few Mitsu flanged turbos that are larger that will bolt on, not the greatest choices but they're there.

 

What the ---- are you kids talking about?

A 14b will happily be run at 20psi EFFICENTLY all day.

10-12psi? hahahahhahaha funniest ---- i've heard in my life


22psi has been the accepted peak boost that you want to sustain on the turbo and still make power. It has been this way for the last 10 damn years.

 

Not on a Honda it won't. Stop being a DSMtardfag and go look at some compressor maps. At a pressure ratio of about 1.8 (12 psi, give or take,) you're on the edge of the peak efficiency island.



There you go, peak RPM, reasonable efficiency, 10 psi, 14b = 70% efficiency island. And it runs straight through the peak efficiency island just about when an LS is going to be at it's peak power levels. WEE!

20 psi on a 14b powered LS isn't even on the map

Yeah he could run more boost, but he's looking for a more peppy setup, not looking to swing his E-dick around quoting his OMGWTF power numbers. He's also looking for a reliable setup. Stuffing excessive and unessecarily hot charge air into the engine doesn't usually result in a reliable setup, but rather a timebomb.