Best turbo for D series 250 - 280whp with quick spool?
 

what turbo would be the best choice for 250 to 280whp with quick spool still?

not looking for extreme top end just something fun for daily driving...

from the turbos below could someone explain the performance per each for me

Bullseye t3/t4e 57 trim .55 a/r
max power:
Spool @ rpm:

Bullseye t3/t4e 50 trim .55 a/r
max power:
Spool @ rpm:

Garrett t3/t4 50 trim .63 a/r..........
max power:
Spool @ rpm:

Garrett t3/t4 57trim .63 a/r..........
max power:
Spool @ rpm:

Garrett t3 super 60 .48 a/r..........
max power:
Spool @ rpm:

I think you're gonna cry if you get any of the t3/t4's. I had a 57 trim on my D16Z6 and lemme tell you, first gear was a joke, full boost RIGHT before I had to shift. The rest weren't TOO bad but it was definitely more of a "freeway puller" as opposed to any quick spoolin' daily drivin' fun. I'm in the process of building a B18B1 'Teg and with all of the compressor map math and plotting we decided the T3 Super 60 would be about the largest turbo to still spool up pretty quick and yield 300ish ponies. And THAT'S with 1834+ CC's to power it, If I were making a D-series turbo again for that amount of power I'd probably go with either a T3 50 trim or super 60, but I'm pretty sure you're still gonna sacrifice at least a LITTLE in the boost threshold/boost lag department.

The differences between the t3 super 60 and t3 50 trim are only in the compressor wheel from the looks of it.. the rest is identical..

what effect would a 60 trim compressor wheel have vs a 50 trim compressor wheel in terms of spool up? would the 60 trim spool 500 rpms or so later?

so my questions is what does the trim of the compressor fundamentally do?

compressor trim refers to the ratio of inner/outer wheel size. the larger the trim numbers the bigger the compressor wheel. the bigger the wheel the more cfm the turbo can flow. the more cfm the more power.

does this mean more turbo lag?

would a 60compressor wheel trim be alot more laggy compared to a 50 trim compressor wheel?

the trim on a compressor will determine how much airflow the turbo will flow. that airflow will determine how much hp can be made. a 60 trim compared to a 50 trim will flow more air. the ar stamped on the exhaust housing will determine how large the exhaust housing is. the larger the exhaust housing the more lag but the more power. the smaller the exhaust housing the less lag but less power.

none of those turbos are right for what you want. the greddy kit comes with a TD04 15G thats what i have

This is what I'm piecing together right now, but this setup won't get him much above 220whp. Those turbo's will max out around there.

yeah thats true. so i guess quick spool and 280whp is like an oxy moron lol maybe a 14b would be somewhere closer

14b or 16g imo...

Have you consider maybe the Ball Bearing T28 Turbo from an SR20DET. That would be good for the power level your looking for and have good spool.

I have a Civic D16B2 running 9psi on a T3 turbo with 42/48 trim. I did try a T3/4 hybrid at first but couldn't live with the stupidly late 5k boost. I changed everything for the smaller one and now it starts to + boost at 2800 rpm and by 3300 the W/G is opening. It makes for a much smoother and usable power delivery for everyday driving. I'd rather have a long band of power from 3 to 7k rpm than a short surge from 5k to 7k.
That's my penneth.

If you have money go discoe-potatoe/GT2860RS they spool super quick and are good for around 330 crank hp which usely turns into 250-280 whp. I think you would really like that, I'm trying for the same setup currently for backroading and I'm currently goin with a t25 off an sr20 which should spool before 3300, and the power will be over 200 until I can afford my GT2860RS. Thats my 2cents.

a d series is not exactly what i would call a (power house), unless you are fully built your not going to reach your goal.im running a b20 w a GARRETT 60-1 70 a.r cold 48 a.r hot. on 12lbs w stage 2 cams i made 311 whp and 298 torque. i dont see a d being able to do that... its been done dont get me wrong , its just not cost worthy to do it for little numbers. not bashing just stating the fact that a D is almost pointless except for gas milage

Are you kidding me. You obviously dont know anything about d-series. You can build them for super cheap and make an assload of power. typical b-series owner....

sohc his dohc nog... you can make good power w a d series.. a d16 actually makes more power then a b16 until vtec just some food for thought... id run a t3 48 60

wow! you just schooled me! (thumbs down) ... we can post bash all day and get no where.what it boils down to is if he wants to make power motor hes gotta run a B (unless you like just throwing your money out the window) im not saying you cant make power with a D, its just easier and cheaper to go with a B. read through the forums and compare the numbers. any real big numbers are made by a B, H. anyways back to the forum yall have fun pissin in the wind!

you were the one who was bashing the guy.. lol

Here is what i think. I had a JDM b18b from tiger japanese shipped for about 700. The thing ran mint. 30,000 miles and no wear on any cam lobes once i looked it over. A TD05 (big 16g) running 8 psi got non tuned with just a chip got me 230 whp. everything was done RIGHT and we spent about 1000 dollars for the turbo set up. Right now i'm doing the same thing but MUCH bigger pockets this time around. Got alot of "Power to the ground" upgrades (500 hp motor mounts, stage 3 500 hp clutch kit, very stickey tires, and 5 way adj struts, i'm actually on this web site to find the 16G b series manifold again when i saw this thread. OH and i was running an ls tranny for the super long final drive gear and the longer gears in general. If you can put ALL of your power to the ground you DON'T NEED alot of power. You would be amazed at how many "fast cars" i beat with only 230 hp spooling at 3000 RPM. I didn't lose a race to anything stock including g35, g37, m3, caman S, ANY stock v8 power out there. Even whooped an older corvette with no problem. This turbo had close to no lag considering when you shift at 7000 rpm you're right back to full boost even when you don't "No lift shift" I think if you put this set up on a d16z6 with low comp pistions and rods you could get MORE then 230 out of it. 8psi isn't NOTHING but it was enough to beat 99.9% of the cars I raced.

Once again.... you dont know ---- about d series. Good job at looking like a douche

TD04 19T and you will have lots of fun with that it will spool even if you look at the gas pedal lol i plan on throwing a 9b on mines for now then upgrade later to a 19t (same exhaust housing) but im not sure if this would meet your power goals

fritt... you havent made any points. put me in my place tell me why is a d series a better motor, i really want to know. all you have said is that i dont know anything about them and that they can make alot of power. how? show me something you did, something you built... i would love to just go settle this on the track... know what your talking about before you open your mouth......."douche" bc its cool to use middle school insults. grow up lil lady

thats sad, you had nothing better to do on the 4th of july than sit around on the computer. i hope you take a real good look at your life and relize that you are worthless, and the world would be a better place without you.... remember up the street not across

so so so sad... sitting at mom and dads while that thing between your legs just withers away.

have a stock d16a6 making 200 with a t3 48/60 hf manifold with adapter plate deal. just get a t3 48/60 off a thunder bird/mustang svo and you will be set, im only running 10lbs. ive heard svo guys running the turbo up to 23psi. for hondas i was told the turbo might max out around 260ish but i have yet to find that out myself.

HAHAHAHAHAHAH I am probably more successfull at 21 than you are and I am not american so i dont celebrate the 4th of july. I never said that d series motors are better. B series and d series both have their pros and cons. I have built both befor and allways had more fun with the d just becasue it was cheap to fix and parts are everywhere. If you like the b better than thats cool but saying "a D is almost pointless except for gas milage" is bullshit. Have you built one befor?

i really hope you dont honestly believe that you are more successfull than me...certified welder/fabricator and engineering degree and im 23... anyways back to the point. ive built a few for my friends and all it proved to me was that torque is where its at. there is no point in wasting your money unless your auto crossing and dnt want to run with the big boys... and again if you want to continue this, pm me, and lets keep it off the of the forum...

Ladies ladies! c'mon now get a room

19t's make good power, about 220whp at 15psi. Disco potato is where it's at for quick spool and 260+ whp. T3/t4's are laggy bastards on the little d's. BTW be prepared to replace transmissions on a regular basis if you plan on driving hard or running sticky tires. To avoid shelling transmissions even faster, do not plan on drag racing the civic. Wheel hop will destroy axles and transmissions quickly.

Im looking at a TD04-9B front a Mitsubishi 3000gt But i am not sure what manifold to use... Basically all the D-series manifolds I see have a T3 flange.....

Thanks for any help!

Alejandro.