To ARP or not?
 

Backround info:

I am upping my boost to probably around 9 psi, lookingfor near 190-200 It has a stock z6 that was freshly rebuilt around 2 years ago but has been boosted for the last 2 on a stock greddy kit. The only additions I have made are a FMIC, and soon to be Blue Top DSMs, Walbro 255 and Turbonetics MBC.

Question:

Will I need ARPs to run this setup you think? The car runs excellent on its current 5.5 psi.

thanks all.
C O0

Re: To ARP or not?
 

i would suggest to run them they are only 100 bucks

Re: To ARP or not?
 

It's up to you. Do you want to KNOW that your OEM bolts aren't going to stretch, or do you want to take the risk? I don't think 9psi would cause them too, but I wouldn't want to find out.

Re: To ARP or not?
 

9 will stretch them a buddy just had to change headgaskets becuase his stock bolts strecthed on him.So for 100 bucks you have good insurance

Re: To ARP or not?
 

I prefer the good o'l remove a bolt, drop the stud in and tighten method (no head removal) :P

Re: To ARP or not?
 

he blew the gasket to i think

Re: To ARP or not?
 

one at a time i assume? O0

Re: To ARP or not?
 

I say ---- it and run it as is. If the head gasket blows, upgrade to ARPs. You'll have to remove the head anyway to fix the gasket.

Re: To ARP or not?
 

An oem MLS gasket is $30 shipped, and arp's are $100 shipped. Get that ----, install it proper, and enjoy not having to ---- with it again - unless your tuner or wastegate sucks. :P

Re: To ARP or not?
 

I ran 8-12 on stock a all stock z6 for a year, I had no problem until the turbo let go.