Tom-Guy

Fail.

Piggyback? Fail.


Fail.

AaronZ34

I don't think you understand. I cannot make anymore power than it already is. The short block can't handle it, and I don't have the money for either a built block, or a 3.6l. I know I could easily make another 200whp on this setup. But the goal for me is no longer how much it makes, but how it does so. I am limited by my short block. Hell, I'm not anywhere near even the 35R's limits. I'm at the very left side of the map actually. Maybe I could have made out with the same high end numbers, and better low end, with a 30R and a split housing. Hindsight is 20/20. But that is the advice I want, "Go smaller, you'll make the same power, with better reaction and spool."

And I've got you, and only you, telling me that I need a bigger turbo so I can make more power. First off, I don't, I can squeeze another 200whp out of the turbo I've got. Secondly, I don't want more power. No, more than that, I can't afford to make more power.

And I'm here to learn, but he seems to think I have a Supra, with a block good to 1000rwhp, and a desire to have the biggest baddest dyno number in the Fiero world. It isn't so.

Bugs happen, that's part of any build. Mine was easy to find, didn't result in any damage, and easy to fix.

The piggyback was chosen for a number of reasons, and it's turned out to be a very good decision. I retain all of the factory PCM's advantages, and there are hundreds. I'm very happy with it. It offers much more of the things that are important to me than any of the standalones do. And once boost comes on, it tunes easily and accurately. Before boost, it does absolutely nothing, the factory PCM runs the car, and does so flawlessly. Not many people can go out and start their car on a 0* morning, and have it start right up, and idle seamlessly. I can, and that's important to me. I fully understand there's so much more I can do with the advanced standalones, two-step, launch control, traction control, boost control, all of that stuff. But what they gain in advanced features, they lack in basic features (DFCO, cold-start, multi-step idle, etc.)

0b00st0

Now i know your a ------ tool.


Shoulda spent a little more time planning where things will go to avoid the cluster ---- which is your setup.



Nice build though.

0b00st0

Not for you they won't. You suck at tuning.


FAIL!!!!!

Tom-Guy

So the stock PCM controls those larger than stock injectors? I see.

Also, I have no problem getting standalones to start up on cold mornings. There are these things called IAT, CTS, and cranking trims you see. Pretty standard ----, your stock PCM even has them. You know, the one that you could have reprogramed for pennies instead of that piggyback hack crap you threw away money on?

AaronZ34

The LSX is the best automotive engine ever designed, period. I'd love to hear your argument. Remember that the same basic block is pulling trailers for 300,000 miles in Heavy Duty trucks, and turning 7 and a half minute Nurburgring times. It has unrivaled flexibility. It of course is not applicable to every car ever, but the range of applications it has is, as said before, completely unrivaled.

So, please tell me where I should have put this stuff. Suggest another location for my intercooler, or wastegate, or turbo, for example. Stipulations, decklid is not touched, trunk is left alone, firewall is left alone, and minimalizing charge pipe volume, and exhaust volume pre-turbo, is an absolute priority. Trust me, I could have spent years on it, and it'd still be a cluster ----. That's just part of the build. It's fitting 1000 cubic inches of important stuff in 1001 cubic inches of space.

Thanks, though I'm confused as to why you'd say that. As for the suck at tuning comment, it was pretty much out of my hands. Every change I made didn't do anything, as I was changing cells it wasn't going anywhere near, and I had no way of knowing until the dyno day. It's now fixed, and running much better (Meaning the tune is good now).

It's quite clear you don't know near enough about my build to make these comments. The stock PCM does control them, perfectly, in fact. I had it programmed, for pennies (5,000 of them), to do so. However, it would have done so without the programming. That's the advantage of the PCM I was using. The only thing that would have given me problems was initial startup, and open loop driving, as both of these conditions are done on preset tables, and not on O2 feedback of course.

I've played with a number of standalones, and you project the same. You and I both know how truly full of ---- you are if you wouldn't rather a stock ECU do the job (If it could). I don't need to say anymore about that, you know it (You just won't say it). That aside, again, you don't know enough about my PCM to be making those statements. The PCM I chose cannot be programmed for boost, at least, not plausibly. So here were my options (OBD1 and 2 can be programmed for boost):

1) Go for an OBD1 setup. I lose the cold start, cold drivability, and overall more accurate tuning of the OBD2 software. I've had plenty of OBD1 cars, and although it's fine, OBD2 is clearly better.
2) So go OBD2 right? Well the OBD2 3.4s were never offered with a manual, thus they have idle issues when used with a manual. Like, big idle issues.
3) Go standalone. This would be an option, however, I'd be left with what is realistically OBD1 software, which presents the same problems as number 1, regardless of tuning.
4) Go OBD1.5, and a piggyback. The OBD1.5 offers every advantage of OBD2, with the advantage of being able to copy the OBD1 manual tranny's code right over. That, along with the 42lb injector programming, cost $50. My car ran, and ran perfectly, N/A. However, the PCM cannot fuel for boost, without completely changing the entire airflow tables (Disadvantage of OBD1.5, which fixing would run me thousands, not pennies). So I choose the piggyback. The piggyback does absolutely nothing, until the engine exceeds ambient pressure. Then it adjusts the values of a single engine sensor, which changes the stock PCM's fueling, which of course, I control. It can do the same thing for timing, however I don't need to pull any timing as I'm not pushing enough air or temperature to need so, so the timing tables are left alone. So the piggyback allows me the luxury of the factory PCM, and everything it does, whilst still being able to accurately, and reliably, fuel for boost.

I guess what I'm trying to ask, is how is my piggyback a hackjob, and what better option did I have? I realize that it is most of the time not the best solution. I realize factory PCMs are the way to go, but do not offer performance capabilities that standalones do. But I chose a very peculiar powertrain combination, and the tools I chose to get it working right maximized every component that was important to me. I hate to make it sound like this, but it needs to be said. I spent a lot of time, a lot of experimentation, a lot of research, and a lot of money getting this car to where I wanted it, and where it is. And to be told by someone who has spent no relevant time, done no relevant experimentation, done no relevant research, and spent no relevant money that I did this and this wrong isn't exactly easy to hear, or ignore. You made assumptions, and they were wrong. You failed to realize what I wanted out of this car, and what solution was best for that. I can't blame you for the assumptions, I would have made the same ones had I not known much, if anything, about the specific powertrain combination being used.

I do have things to learn, there are things I could have done better, and there are better engines I could have used. But for what I chose, and what I wanted, there was no other plausible solution.

bigdaddyvtec

You arent Pshyco, youre a ------- moron.

Tom-Guy

+1

Dude's too stupid to continue correcting. He's obviously never tuned ----.

0b00st0

That's pretty much you saying you don't know how to tune.




, Ya, if your head is five miles up your boyfriends ***.