88 Fiero GT. Engine swap. Custom turbo build.
#14
Re: 88 Fiero GT. Engine swap. Custom turbo build.
yeah were jealous ha
cool project though i guess, same old hondas get boring. to bad GM motors are crappy and the inside of those fieros look like your in the cockpit of a 70s speed boat. at least there rwd, i used to think they were the coolest when i was like 10 :1
cool project though i guess, same old hondas get boring. to bad GM motors are crappy and the inside of those fieros look like your in the cockpit of a 70s speed boat. at least there rwd, i used to think they were the coolest when i was like 10 :1
#18
Re: 88 Fiero GT. Engine swap. Custom turbo build.
Killer setup, made even better since its mostly your work! My friend is basicly doing the same thing, except he's building the motor but using a smaller turbo. You may know the car, blue with silver decals like big rip marks & huge cams. Seems like you'll make a lot more power once you get the fuel situation fixed. If not for the techno-80's interiors, I'd probably have got into Fieros.
One thing about altitude for boosted cars, you actually make out like a bandit because of the decrease in exhaust backpressure. Its like running a 3.5-4" exhaust over a 2.5" exhaust. Thats what a lot of people don't get, thus why all seriously-knowledgable tuners say much over +/- 5% correction is a big guess when a turbo is involved. The only time altitude is bad is when you're pushing your turbo outside it's flowmap, and 14psi a mile high isn't doing that to a GT35R.
The only 3 things I question on the car - why a 38mm WG, such a small intercooler rad, and WHY THE HELL not go with a divided turbine?? It would have taken all of a minute to weld in an ounce of steel to divide that collector, and you'd have gotten better spool with better topend - even with the larger divieded housing.
Originally Posted by AaronZ34
I put down 417whp, and 427wtq at 14psi, with a really bad tune. The 1.25 correction factor was because the dyno is in Colorado. Since turbo cars are still affected by altitude, but only half as much as N/A cars, the more realistic figure is 376whp. Still brutally fast in a 2800lb car that hooks up like it's got slicks. I've got the tune worked out much better now, I'm hoping to put down around the same numbers, but at 10psi.
The only 3 things I question on the car - why a 38mm WG, such a small intercooler rad, and WHY THE HELL not go with a divided turbine?? It would have taken all of a minute to weld in an ounce of steel to divide that collector, and you'd have gotten better spool with better topend - even with the larger divieded housing.
#19
Re: 88 Fiero GT. Engine swap. Custom turbo build.
Originally Posted by WTF
yeah were jealous ha
cool project though i guess, same old hondas get boring. to bad GM motors are crappy and the inside of those fieros look like your in the cockpit of a 70s speed boat. at least there rwd, i used to think they were the coolest when i was like 10 :1
cool project though i guess, same old hondas get boring. to bad GM motors are crappy and the inside of those fieros look like your in the cockpit of a 70s speed boat. at least there rwd, i used to think they were the coolest when i was like 10 :1
I can't argue the interior though, but you get used to it.
Originally Posted by Lowerit
Post ****.
thought you said you got into an accident with the car?
thought you said you got into an accident with the car?
I did, two, actually. Well, one for me, my friend crashed it the first time. But it still drives, and I'm working on getting the body put back together.
Originally Posted by jo_gobel
are you the same Aaron from GAGT?
Originally Posted by HiProfile
Killer setup, made even better since its mostly your work! My friend is basicly doing the same thing, except he's building the motor but using a smaller turbo. You may know the car, blue with silver decals like big rip marks & huge cams. Seems like you'll make a lot more power once you get the fuel situation fixed. If not for the techno-80's interiors, I'd probably have got into Fieros.
One thing about altitude for boosted cars, you actually make out like a bandit because of the decrease in exhaust backpressure. Its like running a 3.5-4" exhaust over a 2.5" exhaust. Thats what a lot of people don't get, thus why all seriously-knowledgable tuners say much over +/- 5% correction is a big guess when a turbo is involved. The only time altitude is bad is when you're pushing your turbo outside it's flowmap, and 14psi a mile high isn't doing that to a GT35R.
The only 3 things I question on the car - why a 38mm WG, such a small intercooler rad, and WHY THE HELL not go with a divided turbine?? It would have taken all of a minute to weld in an ounce of steel to divide that collector, and you'd have gotten better spool with better topend - even with the larger divieded housing.
One thing about altitude for boosted cars, you actually make out like a bandit because of the decrease in exhaust backpressure. Its like running a 3.5-4" exhaust over a 2.5" exhaust. Thats what a lot of people don't get, thus why all seriously-knowledgable tuners say much over +/- 5% correction is a big guess when a turbo is involved. The only time altitude is bad is when you're pushing your turbo outside it's flowmap, and 14psi a mile high isn't doing that to a GT35R.
The only 3 things I question on the car - why a 38mm WG, such a small intercooler rad, and WHY THE HELL not go with a divided turbine?? It would have taken all of a minute to weld in an ounce of steel to divide that collector, and you'd have gotten better spool with better topend - even with the larger divieded housing.
I doubt the exhaust does that much compared to some setups, as I already have a very good exhaust system. However, I would gain some by going to a 3.5 or 4", so yes, it does help. However, by the math, up here, an N/A or supercharged car loses about 21%, and a turbo car about half that. Yah, I'm well within my turbo's capacity. I actually run it on the way low side of the peak island most of the time.
The 38mm because there's no need to go bigger. It doesn't creep at all, even with the 8.7 spring. And since the 38 is the smallest, and cheapest of the TiALs.
The intercooler is huge. Remember it's an air to water, and since water has 14 times the heat capacity as air, your air to air would need to have 14 times the core volume to have the same thermo properties. My core is 4" x 4" x 12", so 192 cubic inches. An air to air would need to be 2688cu-in to have the same heat capacity. With a typical a/a being 3" thick by 30" long, it'd need to be 30" high to equal my a/w! That's one of the advantages of an a/w, it can be much smaller, which in a build like mine is a big advantage! Plus, I don't have anywhere to put an a/a. As for the size of the a/w, I've got no reason to go bigger. The unit is sized to handle at most 600hp. I won't ever make even 75% of that (At least, I don't want to). So it's already overkill. Add to that I've got a killer water system for it (Exposed copper lines, a large and efficient radiator as the heat exchanger, and a very large capacity system), and that I have a very efficient turbocharger running really low boost levels, and going bigger would just cost more, and take up more space. Plus the negligible effects, a larger pressure loss through the IC, and a higher charge pipe volume.
As for the divided housing. I wanted to stick with a Garrett GT-R, for the ball bearing design. One of the best turbochargers ever made. They don't make a divided T4 turbine, only a T3, and I wanted to go with the T4, and I didn't want to be swapping turbines and stuff (Warranty...). And, I've never had the experience of a divided housing, this is my first turbo build/turbo car. So I was never told about divided housings and their benefits, just didn't know. More top end power isn't a big deal to me, I've got plenty, but I would like the turbo to come on faster.