Q.
           How much Boost can I run on my stock D-series motor? (I.E d16/d15)

A.
           It depends on a lot of things, how well maintained your motor is, what type of engine management you will be using. If you are not going to be using any type of engine management don't expect it to last. We have boosted cars with no management and have had no problems, but the boost levels were very low. I highly recommend getting some type of fuel management. First for a low budget setup, go with a FMU (fuel management unit) these work good with stock injectors around 6-7psi, it is also good to have a intercooler on these setups to keep charge temps cooler, a lesser chance of detonation. Another option is the AFC hack with some larger injectors. Depending on size, you can run 7-10 psi if it's properly tuned. (on a stock fuel pump) People with Standalone Engine management systems (Zdyne/Hondata) with a minimum of 440cc injectors and a fuel pump, I would say 8-11psi.


Q.
           Can you make me an adapter plate or an entire kit? How about some sell me some extra turbos or intercoolers?

A.
           No, we do not sell anything


Q.
           Can I use a Turbo off a Chrysler K Car?

A.
           You can just about use any turbo you want, some are a lot harder then others to use. Some spool faster then others, I have not tried every single turbo so I don't know. Some of the easier turbos to use is the T-25 Mitsubishi and the Ford/Mazda Probe/626 turbos. The Chrysler inlet flange on the Chrysler turbo is very odd. The center section is defiantly a T3 turbo. But the inlet flange has an offset rectangular pattern. Plus the factory exhaust housing is a bit odd to work with.


Q.
           What kind of intercooler should I buy?

A.
           First off take your bumper off and get a few measurements. More then likely you will have to do some cutting and custom fabricating. Visualize how you are going to route all your charge pipes. Hit up the local junkyards in your area and check around on all the turbocharged cars. Maybe you can get lucky and score a Starion/Conquest intercooler.


Q.
           What the hell is a HF/STD/CX manifold, where can I get one and how do I know if it will fit my motor?

A.
           The HF manifold came from 88-91 Honda CRX HF's, the STD manifold came from 88-91 Civic STD/DX baselines. How to tell them apart? The STD has larger ports and has an imprint of the #3 on runner #4. Check your local salvage yards, and check out the classifieds on our forum. This manifold will fit ANY D-series motor. This manifold was designed for a Pre-cat style design, No, a Turbo will not simply bolt directly to this manifold, and an adapter plate has to be made! (D16/D15 or ZC) engines will fit. Normal 4-2-1 or 4-1 manifolds will not work.


Q.
           Can I keep my AC when doing a homemade turbo project?

A.
           We have tried a few times setting up a HF/STD kit supporting AC, with a few different turbos, and it will simply not work. Maybe if you had some type of crazy adapter plate that moves the turbo away from the AC compressor you could squeeze the downpipe right by. We normally remove AC when doing our kits. I recommend if you absolutely want to keep ac, check into a prefab kit.


Q.
           Can I put Mitsubishi injectors on my Civic/Integra?

A.
           Stock Honda Injector 240cc
           1g DSM Non-Turbo 4g63 240cc
           2g DSM Non-Turbo Unknown if works
           1g/2g DSM Turbo Automatic 380cc
           1g/2g DSM Turbo Manual 440cc

           These injectors can be mounted on the stock Honda fuel rail with ease. You will have to grind out the rubber grommet the injector sits in. I wouldn't recommend putting in anything larger then the 310cc injectors in a stock ECM Honda. I ran the 380cc's for a while on the Stock ECM but Fuel mileage was terrible and it wasn't worth it. The 440cc injectors can only be used with a Standalone Engine management system or the AFC Hack.


Q.
           Can I use the Stock Mitsubishi T-25/14b O2 housing on my 4g Civic/Crx instead of making a plate?

A.
           I am sure it can be done, but you will have to cut up the front cross member, On the other hand 92-00 Civics don't have the front cross member and the stock 02 housing can be used.


Q.
           How much should I pay for a Turbo? And where can I buy one at?

A.
           For a used turbo, try not to spend to much, anything less then 100 bucks your doing pretty good. Try dsmtrader.com for some good deals on the DSM turbos, but for others I would hit up the local junkyards. Try to go to the junkyards were you bring your own tools out their and take off the turbo yourself, this way you will be able to snatch all kinds of misc stuff for your project, plus its pretty damn cheap.


Q.
           Will the HF/STD/CX manifold fit on my B16a?

A.
           Bolt directly on. NO, if you are good with cast iron welding and a good fabricator I am sure it could be done. But my advice is it's too much of a hassle.


Q.
           All these lines and where do they go?

A.
           Most turbos are Water & Oil cooled, on a Honda I tap into the coolant passage off the throttle body and make a loop through the turbo and back to the t-body. This cools down the turbo. (any rubber fuel line should do the trick 5/16 3/8 about 7 feet)

           For an oil line I use a high pressure rubber line (300psi) and use a brass T to splice off the back of the block where the oil pressure sensor is. (this is the oil feed line) For an oil return I poke a hole in the oil pan and spot weld a small 3/4 pipe. Then run a rubber line from the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan, (this is oil return) You can use -AN Stainless Steel Braided line as well. Summit/Jeg's has all the adapters you will need. (I recommend a -an4 or -an3 line size)

           Charge lines can be made out of a lot of things, factory turbo cars have great high pressure hoses you can use. Or you can use simple exhaust piping. Try to stay over 1 3/4 inside diameter. Some people use plastic pipe and lots of different things. I recommend getting some mandrel bends from www.jcwhitney.com


Q.
           Check Valves? What the hell is that? isn't that something I put in my fish tank? How do you hook that up on my car?

A.
           Yes, check valves are found in fish tanks, but that can work to keep your check engine light off, basically the bleed the manifold pressure off through a vacuum line that leads to your Map sensor, Some cars need 1-4 of these, they can be bought at pet stores or automotive stores.


Q.
           I am building a Custom Turbo setup for my Honda Civic/Crx with a (brand XX) Turbocharger, I need a parts list.

A.
           Every turbocharger is a bit different some fittings/flanges maybe different then ones I have dealt with.

I will list a parts list of basic stuff you will need.

           Turbocharger - (can be small/large whatever you want) some are easier then others. I personally like using T3 and DSM turbos. They have worked great for me. Some smaller turbos I really wouldn't recommend using with a B-series engine, just because they will really cut out at the top end.

           Manifold - HF/STD/CX Factory Honda Manifolds can be used with an adapter plate, or you can simply go out and buy a Turbo Manifold from Drag/Greddy/HKS. Check on Ebay for custom manifolds, lots of guys sell them.

           Adapter Plate - Each plate is a bit different depending on the turbocharger, You can simply make this yourself or take it to a machine shop and get one made.

           Downpipe - This is where picking a good turbocharger gets tough, finding a turbo that has the downpipe exhaust flange aimed in a good spot for the downpipe. (for a smooth bend) Doing test fits are very important, take the exhaust manifold off your car and just set the turbo in the engine bay and visualize how the downpipe can be made. Some turbos are damn near impossible to use. Once you have selected a good turbo, I recommend a 2.5 inch downpipe any decent exhaust shop can do this for you. Mandrel bends are very nice to use also.

           Intercooler - This is entirely up to you. You don't have to have an intercooler but it keeps the IC temps down a lesser chance of detonation. First take off your front bumper and see how much room you got up their. Take good measurements and visualize where the charge pipes will go. Sometimes a lot of cutting/hacking is involved when doing this. The starion/conquest intercooler is great to use for custom projects like this. They can easily be modified and look great! Sometimes they can be a bit tough to find at a decent price.

           BOV - I highly recommend a BOV, without one you get a really shitty sound. Not only does this sound bad, but once you hit higher levels of boost it will do damage to your turbocharger. Compressor Surge, once the throttle body closes and the charge lines still have pressure they back-feed to the turbocharger and try to spin it the wrong way. DSM bov's are easy to find, cheap and work great! Just about any BOV will work, even the really inexpensive Bosch Bov's that are very quiet.

           Brass T - A Brass T will hook up on the back off the block 1/8bsp is the thread pitch. A 3 way splitter will have to be used. 1 for your stock Oil Pressure Gauge, 1 for your Oil feed line (1/4 barb fitting) and the other to a brass extension from the block. I like to use High pressure line from Napa (350psi Tranny line 5/16) about 4.5 feet you will need. I also flare the fitting on the turbo side and double hose clamp it. For oil return, you will have to install a fitting in your oil pan and create a return line for oil drainage from the turbo. It's pretty easy to do. On the Brass T, most fittings come in 1/8 NPT, and some people like to buy BSP to NPT adapter, I usually run a 1/8th die over my NPT threads and it works like a charm.

           Coolant lines - For Coolant lines I like to use just normal fuel line. You will need around 7.5 feet total. Also get a couple splitters so you can tap into your cooling system somewhere. I like to use the throttle body coolant bypass hoses for this.

           Charge Pipes - This can be a lot of different things. Using factory DSM pipes chopped up works really good. Exhaust/Radiator hoses/PVC pipe I have seen a lot of things used for this, they all work.

           Gauges - I recommend at least a boost gauge, but an Air/Fuel gauge is very nice to have, especially when trying to tune your car. EGT's gauges are also nice to have.

           Engine Management - Turbo charging a car is not rocket science, Engine management is very important in a good running forced inducted Honda/Acura. This is where I have lacked in my past setups causing a lot of blown motors.

           Best - Standalone Fuel Management/ AEM EMS / Hondata / Zdyne / Accel DFI / Speedpro / TEC II / Motec / Haltech. And I am sure there are others. Most systems cost over 1000 bucks. Larger injectors are used. Fuel/Spark Maps can be changed anyway you want them. Vtec/Nos control whatever these systems do it all! You can run a lot of boost on a stock bottom end with a standalone system, Detonation is not a problem unless you don't know how to tune with them.

           Good - Injector Hack, This involves, putting larger injector in your car and using a controller to pulse the injectors slower, by modifying the Map sensor input voltage to the ECU. These setups work great with DSM 450cc injectors. A rising rate regulator (FMU) with a larger inline pump is also another method, these can do pretty well depending on size disc you use in your FMU. When reaching higher levels of boost (I would say over 8psi) I recommend some type of ignition retarding device. The MSD BTM is perfect for this. It backs your timing down as you boost, its adjustable with a knob. Check valves or Missing link will also have to be installed to hide boost from the stock ECU, so it does not throw a check engine light.

           Fair - Rising rate regulator on stock injectors with nothing else will let you run around 5-7psi. I would keep a close eye on your air/fuel gauge and be sure to listen for any type of pinging.

           None - It can be done, but not recommend at all. Back your timing down a few degrees, get 1 step colder plugs, buy high octane fuel all the time, a large front mount IC will be needed. Run a maximum of 5 psi. Also, if you have an extra coolant temp sensor, unplug the factory connector and plug it into your extra one, just let the sensor hang in the engine bay. This will trick the ecu into thinking the car is always cold and going full rich. It's a cheesy method but if you have nothing. Better safe than sorry.

           Be sure to check out each part lists on our turbo projects.


Q.
           What the hell is a DSM?

A.
           (DIAMOND STAR MOTORS) Eagle Talon/Mitsubishi Eclipse/Plymouth Laser/Mitsubishi Galant and (3000gt but parts of this we don't refer to) check out www.dsm.org


Q.
           I am building a Custom turbo project for my (FORD/CHEVY/DODGE) whatever. What turbo should I use?

A.
           I haven't turbocharged every engine, I have only turbocharged Honda/Acura engines. If you have questions about this, ask in our forum. Maybe someone can help you there.


Q.
           I have an 88 Honda Crx SI with 178,034 miles on it, I would like to run 5 psi and not upgrade my internals, can I do that?

A.
           Older engines, depending on how good of condition that are in, yes they can take some boost, but I do recommend getting a good fuel/spark management setup before you boost it.


Q.
           How much boost does a stock Talon/Eclipse/Laser put out?

A.
           The DSM Stock wastegate actuator is set at 8psi. Factory controlled is around 11-12psi.


Q.
           I have a DSM T-25 turbo and I want to just buy a turbo manifold that will bolt to my car, what kind should I get?

A.
           Well unfortunately no one makes a DSM T-25 Turbo manifold, people see the HKS T-25 turbo manifolds, but they are different. They use JDM T-25 SR20DET turbochargers with a rectangular flange. The DSM flange is a Round style. The only way to do it is either make yourself a custom manifold, or make an adapter plate from STD/HF to mate to the T25/14b turbocharger.