Fabrication Everything From JBwelded/Fluxcored downpipes to Equal length SS Manifolds.

welding

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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 07:20 AM
  #11  
BoosTedZSix's Avatar
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Default Re: welding

with all the money you spent on your build, you can't afford a ramhorn?
Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:32 AM
  #12  
Toysrme's Avatar
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Default Re: welding

Use a tooth washer on the head of the bolt & the nut, or a split washer on the nut.
Use longer bolts too.
A lock washer will work great, but make sure it's an all-metal lockwasher.
Nylon lock washer would likely melt & you'd be ---- up a creek.
I've never seen a thread binder (a-la Lock-tite) work at high temps. I've never come in contact with one that was rated past 300-450*F. That makes those fairly useless on exhaust pieces. Maybe a muffler... Not a manifold/wastegate/turbo/cat.
Old Apr 17, 2006 | 10:22 AM
  #13  
0b00st0's Avatar
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Default Re: welding

Originally Posted by LSD Motorsports
Another cast manifold?
I have had the stainless cast Inlinepro mani for over a year and I have never had bolts come loose. My friend has the rev hard mani and the wastegate bolts come loose and least once a month.
Old Apr 17, 2006 | 10:44 AM
  #15  
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Default Re: welding

Originally Posted by BoosTedZSix
with all the money you spent on your build, you can't afford a ramhorn?
thats the point. if I spent my money on the engine I have none left to buy $1000 manifold that dont allow ps or ac, even though I dont use ac. get what I am saying.
my boy have an inline ss manifold and never had a problem, and his turbo spools fine.

but I am starting to see the ligh on the light on the tubular manifolds though. I did the research.
and since this blox is pissing me off, I am gonna get the ramhorn,downpipe, and dumptube combo from RLD fab for $1000. thats after I sell a bunh of ---- on ebay.
most people sell the manifold alone for $800, if I am gonna do it I am gonna do it right, cant afford full-race so thats the next best thing. thanks for showing me the way.
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:19 AM
  #16  
Moving_Target's Avatar
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Default Re: welding

Don't bother with anything less than a mechanically locking (distorted thread) nut. Split locking washers will lose their strength after a few heat cycles. Same goes for nyloc nuts. The nylon insert will burn out of the nut as soon as the manifold heats up.I don't know if I'd even trust a serrated lock washer for that sort of enviroment I'd suggest safety wire and castle nuts but I have no idea how much clearance you have to work with. Chemical locking compounds and heat....eh not the best idea in my mind for long term use. Just MHO.
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