Stainless cutting saw blade
 

I'm about to begin making a turbo manifold, downpipe and exhaust system from 304 stainless (sch 10 - manifold, 16ga DP + exhaust system) I have an old Hitachi sliding compound miter saw which I'd like to find a cold cut blade to work on. Anyone know where I can find something that will work?

The saw takes up to a 10" blade and has a 5/8" arbor (standard woodworking blade) it spins at 3800 rpms no load speed, which is my biggest concern... I've used 7" cold cut blades off my Triton metal saw, problem is the arbor size is larger and you have to basically center the blade up by "feel" -this always results in the blade being mounted off center slightly/out of balance as hell... I'm going to need cleaner results than this will deliver, + a blade that is designed for stainless. Any suggestions?

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

that saw is going to spin way too fast to cut any sort of steel. it might do aluminum oh kay, but not stainless for sure. you could try slowing it down with a light dimmer knob, but i think you will lose too much torque. i tried that with a wood bandsaw. i could get it slow enough, but then it didnt have the torque to cut anything

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

They make low speed chop saws for carbide tooth blades. in the 1400 rpm range with 100 or so carbide teeth. The saws run in the $500 range.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

That's not what I wanted to hear... The reason I have a "spare" sliding compound miter saw available for such a use, is that I am a Master Carpenter by trade. i.e. I don't make a hell of a lot of money, and can 't afford to be buying a ---- load of new tools/equipment...

fortunately, the saw is a belt drive setup, maybe I can slow it down that way. I'll have to look at it and see what I can jury rig...

Ya know, using 7" blades might work for the 1.5" pipe -the manifold, particularly the collectors, are all I'm really concerned about dutting uber accurately. -the DP and exhaust parts are only 16ga, and I have a porta-band bandsaw and a stationary metal bandsaw which I can use on those parts.

I have been looking for a stainless cutting blade that is rated for high rpms, but you're saying that isn't going to work, huh?

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

throw a carbrandum blade in it if youre cheap.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

steel is cut very slow. the only way to cut steel fast is to use a fiber type blade. you can get one of those to fit your saw, but it will throw sparks like crazy.

since its belt drive im sure you could re-gear it to spin what you need. try to get your blade to 60-100 rpm. a little faster wont hurt, but it will dull your blade a little faster

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6190...7926578&sr=8-2

Here is the one I ordered. They cancelled my order cause it was out of stock and I never followed up ordering another. This is the one I would buy.

DO EETT

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

Nice saw, but I'm on a very tight budget and I still have alot of ---- to buy... I just took the cover off the old beater saw, and I think a re-gear is my best option. I just bought this blade http://cgi.ebay.com/EVOLUTION-SAW-9-...742.m153.l1262

All I need is a 1" to 5/8" reducer bushing, re-gear the saw, and it should be good to go.
The saw this blade is for is an "Evolution 230 HDX" It is a sidewinder circular saw that spins at 2700 rpms. You're saying 60-100 Phil??? that's a really big difference. I have no doubts I could slow my saw to 2000-2500, maybe even down to 1500-ish. but I don't see any way to slow it down to triple digit RPM's, let alone below 100...

I'm starting to think more about the dimmer switch idea in addition to different drive pulleys... I might be able to get away with using a dimmer switch to reduce the first 20% and the gear change for the rest to get this slowed down to a usable RPM range.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

Why steel need to be cut at low speed? Sorry for my ignorance, I only used fiber blades....

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

the milwaukee that dave posted up was a 1500rpm steel cutting, steel blade. not a fiber blade.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

Hacksaw!!! FTW

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

We've got alot of expensive woodworking saws here.
Ripped some 1/8" aluminum & brass on one of these http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-5...-Saw/G1023SLWX
Using a purpose made plastic / aluminum / brass (soft metal) high speed sawblade.
The aluminum was very scary to cut.
I've used 10" and well worn 14" chop saws before. You'd never be happy with a 7" blade.


From personal experiance watching someone at a project I traveled too cut a 1/8" thick wall BPI on a 10" miter saw with a 90 tooth wood blade on it... Your ass better be fully clothed with welding gloves on. With goggles AND a full-face mask infront of those. That blade will bite into that metal and sling the son of a bitch (not to mention the shavings and chunks that a wood saw is not designed to collect!) so god damned hard! I left the room when they cut the 2.5" y-pipe on it holding it by hand. Good thing too because the first cut it yanked into the machine, the second it slung the cut-off into a wall 15' or so away.
------- dangerous.



Careful careful cutting metal on toothed sawblades at high rpm!

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

heat is a big reason why you cut steel slow. Aluminum absorbs all the heat from the blade so you can cut faster where steel doesn't. The blade gets hot and wears out, not to mention is very dangerous cutting at high speed.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

Since I don't think I'll make a collector tomorrow, I'll stay with fiber blade. :)

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

A 9" blade with 60 teeth spinning at 2700rpms doesn't seem right... I spoke to a very confident welding supply vendor this morning that assured me the Evolution blades/saws he sells are the cat's ass... I've got my Hitachi SCMS rigged to spin at 2900 without the dimmer, and it seems "usable" until you turn the dial beyond about 25% of it's range. I'm guessing I'm at about 2000-2200 rpms. I've cut aluminum on a tablesaw before, so I can appreciate what you're warning of, Toysrme.
I hope this setup will work. If not, I can always go to fiber (abrasive) blades, and I can probably mockup my collector parts out of PVC, then try to cut the 304 close on the bandsaw and then cleanup on my edge sander.

That leads me to the flattening of flanges. I'm planning on using my edge sander for that very purpose. aside from building a shitload of heat itself which can be eliminated by constant cooling, I'm guessing it will be sufficient. What I really need is a sanding belt that is designed for metalwork. who sells good quality belts for metalworking sanders? (mine takes a 6x80" belt)

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

do yourself a favor and get something with a laser light.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

Na I mean I've never used that kind of blade. Blade could be the cat's meow or not. My warning is to simply be very on your toes cutting steel at high speed. Aluminum is soft & buttery. Steel is very hard and can withstand the shearing of the teeth a zillion times better.
I would email them and ask about the feed rate / pressure. No point in buying a $50 blade and wear the bitch out in twenty cuts because you didn't feed hard enough LoL!
If you have plastic inserts for zero clearance, or low clearance around the blade. Take those SOB's out. You'll burn that ---- off cutting metal when the shavings hit them & melt them. I did that on a nice 10" Makita miter saw running a fiber wheel in it when my first chop saw burned out. $15 mistake. :\



The evo saws are worm drive & have higher torque, that's why their rpm is lower. Keep the rpm abit above the recommended rpm. The higher gearing in your saw, the cut will drag the rpm back down.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

hacksaw that ----.

yes, it's a lot of work but hey it gets ---- done and it's cheap.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

i use a faber blade on a hf chop saw for quick un non pricise cuts and well it works. made a collector by hand with it once. don't ask it was scary.

also i have used one of those nice chop saws with the thoothed blades. very nice and no heat is generated sense they cut so fast.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

Sawzall + 24+tpi blade

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

I use a 12" dry cut saw (spins at 1300rpm) with fairly good success. I can make around 7 headers before the blade needs a sharpening (costs $12).

Here is a video using an 80 tooth blade. The 80 tooth is a bit fine for schedule 10. I generally use a 60 tooth now and it's much faster. I use the 80 tooth for 16gauge.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_MOV01398.jpg


The 12" makita dry cut saw is badass. They aren't expensive, but they aren't cheap either. New they are around $400 give or take. Being able to cut a sched 10 stainless pipe in about 10 seconds is worth it to me. Paid for itself after about 3 headers.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

forget what some of the elitest fucks say...

i used a compound Miter saw... bought some 10" carbon blades and built my first manifold for Z20E turbo manifold.


what you should know when using this saw type yes the blade speed is a issue becuase it don't make no Torque so go slow.

the speed will also shorten the life of you blades so get a few( i used 2 blades total to complete my build).


beaware the metal filings can get into the motor and short it out... miter saw is not designed for cuting metal.

Re: Stainless cutting saw blade
 

bondo try starting your cut faster. prolly get more blade lade out of it that way. love the punch. next time i drag my HF somewhere ill have to clamp it that way.