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rate my stickwelds
I have a question about the penetration of my welds. I use a 2mm rod on 1.6mm thick walls with 50Amps or so, stickangle around 45degrees and a 1~2mm arc, this are the results:
http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04443.JPG http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04441.JPG http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04440.JPG http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04442.JPG Is this good? or how schould the penetration look like ? And this is some fooling round with weld-els, 2.6mm thick, 80amps 2mm electrodes: http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04444.JPG http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04445.JPG http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04446.JPG Straight lines is not that big of a problem ;) 80amps, 2mm thick, 2mm electrodes : http://pics.309gti.nl/las/DSC04325.JPG |
Re: rate my stickwelds
Not too bad, but you have holes in a few places.
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Re: rate my stickwelds
thats stick welder action? im impressed.
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Re: rate my stickwelds
THats way better than most of the flux core guys can muster.
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Re: rate my stickwelds
you using 7018 rod?
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Re: rate my stickwelds
I'm using e6013 rods from different brands though. The more expensive ones give me a smoother beed than the cheaper ones. There is also difference in the coating of the sticks. The expensive ones give me nicer beads, but are harder to lay straight and have a light coating. The cheaper ones have a darker coating, weld easier but aren't so sexy to look at :) The diffence in coating has something to do with basic /acid type of electrode i think. (dunno if it is the right translation ;))
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Re: rate my stickwelds
I was also told to seperate the two pipes about 1mm to get good/better penetration rather than push them together without spacing ?
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Re: rate my stickwelds
Originally Posted by Tauws
I was also told to seperate the two pipes about 1mm to get good/better penetration rather than push them together without spacing ?
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Re: rate my stickwelds
nice welds they look better than my tig welds but ive only been welding for 2 days, what kind of camera are you using my camera can focus for ---- when some thing is that close.
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Re: rate my stickwelds
Originally Posted by LSD Motorsports
You dont have to do that, you just bevel the pipes, thats the easier way to keep your welds consistent. Those dont look to bad, looks like ur moving just a tad bit to quickly though.
I'm sporting the sony DSC S75 :) it's a real bad ass camera if you know how to use it. Shooting mice pictures is another thing I like to do when I'm not busy with my car :) |
Re: rate my stickwelds
The welds with the big globby spatter indicate that you're welding too hot or your arc is too long. The beads aren't bad overall. No real tips you need, just practice. you have a good start on it already.
Stick welding pipe that small diameter and thickness is pretty difficult. Typically, people will use a 6010 for the first pass, and a 7018 to fill/cap it. The 6010 rod will burn smoothly at lower amperages, which means that you will have more control over it when working it into the gap between the two parts. Bevel the pieces, put about a 3/32" gap between them, and when you weld them, you want a "keyhole". This means that you basically blow a hole through the pipe first, then you keep the tip of the rod in that hole, watching metal get deposited on the back side of the hole, as you travel along. you want to push the rod into the hole just deep enough that almost all of the sparks are going into the pipe. This will help you to get the penetration you're looking for. |
Re: rate my stickwelds
Originally Posted by Engloid
The welds with the big globby spatter indicate that you're welding too hot or your arc is too long. The beads aren't bad overall. No real tips you need, just practice. you have a good start on it already.
Stick welding pipe that small diameter and thickness is pretty difficult. Typically, people will use a 6010 for the first pass, and a 7018 to fill/cap it. The 6010 rod will burn smoothly at lower amperages, which means that you will have more control over it when working it into the gap between the two parts. Bevel the pieces, put about a 3/32" gap between them, and when you weld them, you want a "keyhole". This means that you basically blow a hole through the pipe first, then you keep the tip of the rod in that hole, watching metal get deposited on the back side of the hole, as you travel along. you want to push the rod into the hole just deep enough that almost all of the sparks are going into the pipe. This will help you to get the penetration you're looking for. The splatter is mostly from the arc being to long, thats something I need to practice more because I pay more attention on the angle of the stick preventing slag rather then the stick getting shorter all the time. Time for some more weld els O0 |
Re: rate my stickwelds
looks pretty good just slow it down a bit and keep it closer. basily just pratice it a lot. pipin that thin can be trickey though. engloid pretty much said it all. I love the stick action lol mig is for wimp who can't weld haha. seriously though keep it up will look really good if you get it right.
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