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My Epic Welding Failure(updated 08/02)

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Old 01-13-2009, 06:19 PM
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Go to your local library and get a few books on welding. They take like 2 hours to skim through and you'll learn a lot fast. Enough to get you familiar with what you're doing. Helps alot and it's free.
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:17 PM
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Cut it on half and high.

You pull the trigger, it's not a stick welder. There is no manual arc striking.
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:03 PM
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Take a picture of the inside by the wire feeder.There should be a couple of bars or wires or something to switch the polarity.
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:43 AM
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dcep = wire is the +, ground clamp the is -
Originally Posted by Dmc1
You need to get your head checked a metal blade and that saw will work great. I use a similar one compound mitres Whats wrong with you why would you think that. He can make seriously precise cuts with that.
Because the saw blade is likely too:
Overheat itself
Overheat the workpiece
Dust collection is not designed to shield or capture spent metal
It will be prone to grab the workpiece and sling it at 80+mph.
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:18 PM
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Ah ----, I got it working. Maaad easy!

For the saw, if I can get a smaller abrasive blade ill wing it. Otherwise it going back to Home Depot.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:07 PM
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post pics of your welds
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by juce
Ah ----, I got it working. Maaad easy!

For the saw, if I can get a smaller abrasive blade ill wing it. Otherwise it going back to Home Depot.

Thanks for all the help.
Abrasive blade? It's not a rotary sander. You want carbide blades.

Originally Posted by Darkelvis
post pics of your welds
That welder is older than Mista Bone. I'd like to see your welds too.

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Old 01-14-2009, 11:02 PM
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For cutting metal ive always used those black "composite" looking blades. Makes a ---- load of sparks but it works fine, we built a whole car that way.

Ill get some pics up this weekend. Im supposed to ventilate the area while welding and at at -24 Degrees C (~-2Farenheit) outside, its way to cold to keep the door open. Stay tuned!
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Old 01-15-2009, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by juce
For cutting metal ive always used those black "composite" looking blades. Makes a ---- load of sparks but it works fine, we built a whole car that way.

Ill get some pics up this weekend. Im supposed to ventilate the area while welding and at at -24 Degrees C (~-2Farenheit) outside, its way to cold to keep the door open. Stay tuned!
carbrandum or fiber reinforced carbon is the type. 'carbrandum' is the brand name who patented the blade. the rest are copies slightly differnt in makeup but do the same job at more or less cost
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Old 01-24-2009, 01:16 AM
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The only time you should use a carbide blade on metal is if its actually a wet saw (very low RPM, special milky lubricant), or if its a rediculously expensive rip-style carbide blade made for cutting only aluminum (non-ferrous, really). All wood-cutting blades use offset carbide that's cheaply brazed on, and only designed to cut the grain and remove material.

Chop saws grind steel. Beware they don't cut (grind) aluminum with that disc, unless you like seeing a 4000rpm 14" disk explode in your face. Chop saws also have a clamping base for a reason, flying chunks of metal are far more dangerous than wood (although that brazilian hardwood crap is close).


Yes, epic fail. :1
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