jig plate
 

just curious what everyone is bolting their stuff up to when they weld them. i had someone request some jig plates so i made a head plate up with the requested patterns and a turbo plate. both plates are 3/4" mild steel. all holes are tapped so there is no need to fight with nuts on the other side. i'll have to post up some pics of my own personal one when i get around to it. doing it this way keeps the jig modular and all you have to do is make the arm that joins these two plates.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...h/DSC00655.jpg

Re: jig plate
 

baller status as usual, good work

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stop making money and make your crx :)

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nice. i drill out 2*'s, use rebar for pegs and hold piping with large worm drive hose clamps tacked to the rebar.

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how much for a set of plates like that?

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$300.

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i have some holes drilled into my welding table, but its not as level as it used to be, thats a good idea. people that build manifolds on a daily basis would definatly benafit from those plates

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i use a 2X2 sqaure peice of aluminum for the head flange. Each side has the bolt pattern for a different head. Aluminum absorbs heat alot better then steel, helps a ton with warping. Great idea though, not a bad price either considering time and material.

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the only down side to aluminum: if the holes are threaded, over time and repeated use, the threads will fatigue and strip out.

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You could always countersink some threaded steel on the backside, no? It would be a bit more work but probably it's cheaper to make for you.

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correct. That would be the point where i get a helicoil.

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aaron's ballin so much hes comin out of his pants

Re: jig plate
 

I have a 1" thick by 4" wide by 2' long piece of aluminum that I use for keeping flanges flat.

It has no holes in it. I clamp the flange to it. Clamps work with any flange- if you use the right clamps they also tend to be less "in the way" of where I am trying to weld. The aluminum conducts heat well and means I can do a lot of flange welding without overheating the flange. It also means I'm not dragging a piece of steel that big (it would be much heavier) around the bench as I move things to get at the welds. Also I use stainless flanges- it's minor but all of that contact with carbon steel isn't ideal.

My jigs are ------ wooden. Yup. Wood.

Attachment 13093

I only use them for fitup and tacking and they last a long time. I might get fancy and start making aluminum ones since it's a real breeze to weld with the new welder, but wood seems to work KO.

I have made about 15 header off that jig so far.

I prefer to fit everything up, then cut the runners off one by one and weld them up, then weld them back on.

I always wonder if I had a super rigid jig, and I welded everything up solid under a lot of restraint, there was a possibility of having locked in stresses due to distortion.

The wooden jigs acre actualy pretty light and stiff and fast/cheap to make.

edit: Here you can see aforemention bigass piece of aluminum, being it very versatile self:
Attachment 13094

Re: jig plate
 

damn, put some holes in that aluminum... it will make it much easier to weld with 4 bolts instead of 4 vice grips!

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That wooden jig is AWESOME!!!! :o :o

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Looks like there's more room with the vise grips than there would be with bolts in there actually.

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not if the flange were a weir flange. threaded holes ftw... you'd have nothing on top of the flange other than the collector itself.

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Ahh yes, that's a different story ;)

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Yeah the wooden jigs are extra HMT foodstamp material eh? And to think I made that way before I joined HMT. Must be in my blood. :8


Some of my flanges are threaded and some arent. Some cannot be.

It depends on the application and turbine housing. On some turbos the turbine housing is threaded and you need to install studs in the housing (there is no room for nuts on the backside of the housing- a good example is a holset HY35 or HE351, which is as very common turbo for the volvo guys at least.)

The head flanges are never threaded obviously.

I can see some merit to having plates with holes, don't get me wrong- i'm not syaing it is a bad idea and doesn't work fine, but for me there is generally lots of room with the vice grips there, and I have 8 sets of vise grips that stay permantently set to clamp a 3/8" flange on the 1" aluminum piece, so it's extremely fast to clamp up. Stick the flange on, snap,snap,snap, weld 'er up. No wrenching no hardware. Just a different approach I suppose.

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Bondo mine for pipe are wood also. works well

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The aluminum is to absorb heat / minimize warping, right? I'm baffled by the lack of soot on the wood jigs??? How are you keeping them from catching on fire?


I have V-band flanges to weld on for turbine inlet/outlet/wastegate/BOV and 2 more in the exhaust system. what can be done to help keep these flat?

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what material are you using here? 1.5" sched 10 bends + ??? two different types of material?

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looks like all sch10 to me ???