The miata guys do something similar. Pressure switch that kicks in at an adjustable pressure. Usually a -----hair before 0.0001 PSI. At that point instead of sending the narrowband voltage, it sends a pre-set voltage so the ECU thinks it needs to add fuel to stoichify ----. Works great. I'm doing something similar with my F/IC and get about 12.5 in closed loop approaching boost and in low boost at partial throttle.

 

Dyno'd it this evening. 202.18 hp and 265.47 lb/tq. needs some more tweaking and the water/meth kit installed. air/fuel was good and max torque comes on at 2500 rpm and is pretty level across the board

 

bitchin


i wish my 4.0l had a dizzy

 

More Pete from the dyno.

 

damn thats a nice amount of power to the wheels. how much boost? still running rich?

 

It was 6.5 psi and its pig rich up top. The FMU is killing it up top. It will make much more power if it were leaner.

 

ive never been 4wheelin before. looks like a shitload of fun.....


i bet you that thing has a ---- load of low end

 

IF you are still running the 14-1 (or whatever ?-1), you can run a MBC inline to the FMU. Then you can turn down the boost the FMU is seeing therefore making the FMU a 10-1, a 8-1 whatever. Worked well for me.

 

We were actually discussing that as we were unstrapping it that night. I think that is something we are both going to try in out Jeeps to free up some power.

 

a true hmt build

no fancy computers, manifolds or bling, just tricks of the trade from guys that know what they are doing that yield results.