Slo_crx1

I figure before Xenocron comes and snags my jig crx, I'd like to make another front crossmember for my 89 hatch, but this time better than my first one. The trick is it has to retain stock radius rods, and will have poly bushings or some type of spherical hinge (kind of like a large steel ball with the center drilled out to slip over the radius rod...will help it swivel). Now I already built one x-member sort of like this, but it has some binding problems due to the geometry that it sits at. If anyone has any type of setups like this, please post them up. I know the heim joints are usually the best way to go, but I can't alter the front suspension design too much, only on the crossmember design itself. Show me anything you guys have, this is HMT...I'm sure there's plenty of good stuff to post up

Slo_crx1

Haha...you guys suck...toss me some ideas here, or tips even from any of your trial and error builds.

Minor Threat

I have a few idea in my head.

I'm probably going to cut and box the stock crossmember to fit my halfrad and use poly bushings unless I get really motivated. I was able to fit a 3 inch downpipe last season with the stock cross member.

If you're looking to just modify your existing stock one, perhaps that would suffice? What are you trying to accomplish with a new crossmember?

Slo_crx1

I've been thinking about that, maybe just cutting out the center section of the original x-member and welding in tubing instead. I can't really use heims, just in case of any incident where they might break in any way. I've personally never had an issue with them, but if I slide into the dirt and rocks and break one or both I'm pretty much screwed. Basicly it has to handle the rigors of auto-x type of driving (look up scca soloII events, that's pretty much it right there). Most of the time you spend attacking the turns at higher rpm's in 2nd or 3rd gear, so wheel hop off the line isn't that great of a factor in this. Just has to be relialbe, keep a correct suspension geometry, be cheap to build (obviously ), and take the abuse and still let me drive the car home. Ohh, and has to fit a 3" downpipe on my funky turbo b16 build
*Edit: Ohh, and half-rad is definately a big plus!*

Minor Threat

Yup, cutting out the center section was my other idea, but then I figured all I really want out of it is to be able to run a half-rad without hacking the actual front of the car up too much.

91B16hatch

also i find if you want to use the half rad with stock xmember aslong as your dp isnt in the way you can just notch out some of the webbing on the hood and it will fit down enough if you cut the 2 bottom legs for the stock mounts and the top leg so the hood will fit down the rad might be on like a 2-4 degree angle but nothing serious

Slo_crx1

My dp isn't a problem...it hugs tight to the block and pan. I just finished fabbing up my log mani, and I would be able to keep my half rad in it's current location (centered a little more instead of far off to the side). Hell, by the looks of it, I think I could even run another full-size rad if I wanted to. Like mentioned before though, my suspension geometry is off, so that needs to be fixed.

iceracercrx

Heims aren't strong enough for auto-xs They have only been on every racecar built after WW2 and every plane for that matter.

Look in to mono ball joints, one could machine peices to make it work with stock arms.

Randy

SpankedYA!

You can actually use an EG traction bar. It bolts right in. You will need longer radius rods and a retention system to your control arms.

ososlohatch

not that i dont believe you but i asked a couple company's and the said that its a very bad idea to try and nog rig eg traction bars to work on ef's,