gon3r

i have one in stock now. i can same day it to you if needed. pm me with shipping address.

HiProfile

I made a T3 flange with 1/4" steel and two 1.25" holes. Since it was a 2-pipe 1.25" collector, it was also port-matched Incidently, it was perfectly flat after welding - really surprised me. HOWEVER, I definately will never do that again using a holesaw (yes, was bimetal).

I'd only suggest DIY holes on thicker steel with a very powerful drillpress, mill, or lathe with a 4-point chuck (with indipendant jaw movement). If you make a cheap flange with a rectangular peice of steel, a machine shop could bore the big hole quick & cheap. You save all of 3 ounces with a contoured flange anyways...

NIGn0g

I would like to be in your situation to test the plasma torch my dad bought last week

Scott-EP

i have a decent drill press. PM me

bitchM0VE

I used a 2.5" hole saw cutter from Lowes. Used a POS drill press. Trick is to use lots of WD-40 or the like to keep the cutter cool as to not wear it out. I cut a several 2.5" holes with it in 3/8" plate and it never dulled. Granted the drill press didn't like it.

tkelly278

Truth. Don't force it either. I like to flip the part around after the hole saw is 1/2 way through. The pilot hole will be all the way through and you'll be cutting the same hole on the back. Seems like it likes to cut the fresh metal better than swimming around in it's own chips and grease. Oh yeah, blow out the chips every so often.

josh19wrc

rock the holesaw lightly as you cut to in an orbital pattern, tehn you get point contact and its less likely to stall as you dont have all teeth in contact at one time... that is, of course, if your not using a press.

undesiredshoe

Also, when using a hole saw, go really slow with the speed...if you think you are going to slow, go slower!

iownahatchback

i need to do this too