FAB-ulous (pics)
 

my brother in law builds these...

...my new longarm kit for my jeep, I picked it up this weekend, and still need to drill 8 holes to accept the trans/tcase bolts, and then it goes to powdercoat.

He's pretty handy with a wire feed. All the tabs welded on are laser cut 3/16" and the outer crossmember brackets are made on an ironworker shear/punch press, and then press brake bent.

http://gitout.com/v-web/gallery/d/15269-1/longarm01.jpg

http://gitout.com/v-web/gallery/d/15276-1/longarm04.jpg

http://gitout.com/v-web/gallery/d/15278-1/longarm05.jpg

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

dem some nice welds

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

OHH OHH PICK ME,

i need one of those sets !!!

i've been looking to long arm my self,

how much ?!

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

id have to get several sets ready to go in order to get him to build a run of them, otherwise its not worth the effort for him.

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

NEWBSZ OFF ROADZX Qustion WTF DOSE IT dO? :X

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

Jason you trust that half Y link set up? At least the RK set up uses its own frame anchor point for the single upper arm. I don't see any adjustment for these. What if you have a slighty bigger or smaller lift? 2 mounting bolts on each side? Is that it?

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

thats a nice looking ricer wing you got there

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

The upper uses a heim for adjustability, its just not in the picture.

Personally we've used 1 link on Jerry's Comanche which sees hard abuse and competition and in 3 years its never shown any signs of failure. On the kits that we've sold to others, they get 2 Y links. I chose to run one because I've seen the suspension travel difference vs 2 and I've seen it hold up to the abuse. The biggest thing is just to not use a shitty heim.

I'm getting alot of web-wheeler love on NAXJA, but thats exactly what 90% of the people on there are...web wheelers...

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

very nice welds...

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

i thought the Rk kit is basically the same as what fook has

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

Very nice man! Must be awesome to have a brother like that!

http://gitout.com/v-web/gallery/d/15278-1/longarm05.jpg

Stacking dimes is good for TIG, but can't that be a no-no in some cases running wire? I coulda swore I got told that like my second or so stringer bead I did. Eh. Maybe not.

Good parts tho!

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

The RK kit in my opinion isn't as good, no crossmember, and not a y-link design.

This one is more comparable to the Clayton's longarm kit

I am going to assume that by stacking dimes you're referring to doing a series of little overlapping tack welds.

Thats not what you're looking at. That weld is one long nonstop continuous bead, with an amazingly steady hand. In the almost 10 years I've known Jerry I have never seen a weld he laid break.

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

i may be wrong but looking a tthe orange next to the weld i think he might need to turn up the gas a little. other than that it is a damn nice mig weld

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

I think its just fine...

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

to me that looks like when you lift a tig torch away too fast after laying a bead, but again, i may be wrong

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

I think its fine...

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

those look like some damn good mig welds to me!

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

It's not that I care. I'm just gearing my brain to look at this stuff for the foreseeable future so I'm trying to absorb it all. Why I asked. If that's a TIG weld then yeah, awesome. But I took what u said in the first post to mean he did it with wire. AFA that being a continuous bead yeah, but if that's MIG welding action. I'd much rather see an actual continuous bead without rippling (aka the stacked dimes). Just like a robot would weld it. :)



Hey fook question. Is your brother left handed?

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

The welding is done in a continuous bead where he works back and forth, most people I've seen weld mild steel with a mig do it in that fashion.

He's right handed but can weld left handed and right handed very proficiently.

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

ahh i got the rk kit confuzzled...post pics when its done negro

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

Yeah..thats a really steady hand..i'm all over the place when using fcaw/MIG. I wish I could weld good on actual parts..for some reason I can lay good beads down when i'm practicing but when it comes down to making stuff for my car nothing ever looks nice, I always have to blob the ---- out of it.

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

Educate me....Why is the "stacked dimes" not good with a mig?

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

Well you don't get good enough penetration on a skip weld. What happens when you skip weld there is a gap in penatration and this could cause it to break on extreme loads. On a structal part like that you have to have everything perfect. What they taught us in school is just to draw the bead straight down with would moving back and forth. We had to test out welds when I was in school and we got to see what would happen when they failed. They will usually brake on the base metal on a good weld. On a bad weld it could break in the middle of the weld or just break off the weld completely for not having good penetration.

but yes the orange on the metal isn't good. His heat zones look very small which is good.

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

I'm gonna go ahead and stick with "10 years not one broken weld"

I've had a local with this longarm kit get t-boned at 25mph, and roll his cherokee. He pulled that kit off and put it on another Jeep, still perfect.

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

I asked my instructor today. He said the same thing. He didn't go into it much & I honestly don't remember exactly what he said. But the gist of it was:
Everybody's different
he'd much preffer see someone gmaw a weld face that was as uniform as possible because a weld is only as strong at it's weakest point.
And that while I can't quote off-hand. There are specifications for a maximum allowable amount of rippling, but there is no specification to how uniform a weld can be. ;D

Maybe Engloid will show up & actually explain it hardcore like.






I don't mean nothing by it Fook. :) I'm just trying to apply what I learn every day. :P

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

That weld looks like it was done by a robot, seriously the robots that weld the GM truck frames dont even do that well of a job half the time, I know this because I used to watch them do their thing then fix whatever they screw up.

Re: FAB-ulous (pics)
 

With the "ripple' effect, there is nothing wrong with it, unless there is too much undercut at one of the "toes" of the ripples and then that causes a stress riser which in turn could cause failure (ex. cracking). By looking at the the piece welded there is no excessive undercut (very very little undercut) and the material being as thick as it is, there is no way it would break, crack or fail in any manner, unless blown up by a tank.

And as for the robots at Formet, if the weld is taught right, by say, me, then all our welds would look that good too. You have to remember we are on an assembly line trying to make the frames as quick as possible and unfortunetly quality and apearance take a back seat, oh and our material gets no thicker than 3mm which makes it harder when getting into those tight areas and not burning through