Well I finally got around to getting ahold of someone with a tig welder to do some fab work. So I want to start off that I"M IN NO WAY a excellent tig welder to aluminum as I'm only done it maybe a handful of times. So here it is nigs
I started off by cutting the inlet off and relocating it to my desired position

Then I filled in the original opening "2 different thicknesses" with aircraft aluminum and made a transition that floats my boat

The tranition from the innards

And back on the widebody

Engine bay shot



AND a little thanks to my NIG/GFI homo out west for some input last night and the 11am phone call, BITCH you know I work second shift

 

I think you would have been better off hacking a bend to transition in better, as it looks like you still have a clerance issue with the support and it would have flowed better, but that will work..

 

Going to weld some pipe to it later after I get my new Vband exhaust housing in from Precision, Going to try and get it to where I only have one coupler from the turbo to the backdoor. So I have less of a chance for boost leaks, then after thats situated I'm going to work on the TB side and move my connection point from where it is at now"behind headlight in a bend" to further down the wheel well in a striaght area.


Also I have the Synapse BOV and a HKS BOV, thinking of using both one on each side of intercooler hidden. But thats me thinking too hard about it.

Synapse BOV really does kick ***, too bad their WG's dont on honda's.

 

Those end tanks taper like that because they expect airflow in the bottom, I'm sure it'll work but I'd have spent another 2 hours on it and made new tanks. Air distribution across the core is not going to be great IMO.

 

I did that awhile ago with my EVO intercooler


the response was so much better

 

 

NOW YOU POST IT.

CACK lol and marcj how do you know the response was better, did you dyno test it or was it a butt dyno hypeRvtec run?



SPIKER GD you right now GD you should of "like I politely asked" sent me a picture so I could of went that route, but it's too late and it's only a $100 intercooler from Ching Chong meow land, if work picks back up I'll probably redo it. But for now IDK how it will do.


Thanks for the pictures everyone, nice setups

 

well, it was hard to say for sure, because I went from a cast manifold to the mini-ram whatever you want to call it manifold at the same time.. I know my spool time was cut in half. I didn't really hear the turbo at 3k rpm accelerating normally in traffic before.. now it's really pronounced. I'm sure the removing 5' of 2.5" charge pipes and the equal collector made the huge difference.. probably a small exhaust leak was fixed too

 

You can hear your compressor? ---- I got solid mounts and a painted dash"has nothing to do with sound but a great excuse" and I cant hear my holset spooling unless I blew a charge pipe. Still have not ran my precision 6262E but I sold my holset today for $245 and sold my S1C B series B16A2 trans that I rebuilt. IF ANYONE WANTS TO SELL A BROKEN B TRANS PM ME AND ILL BUY. Bone has the D's on lockdown, And I "after 5 B's " think I have the B's on my side here.not including the numerous H/F's I rebuilt for my car.

 

I wouldn't be able to hear anything past the dash paint either.