b20accord

Alright well i know im probbaly gettin flamed for not just getting real managment but i have a question. I have that fully built a20 im putting in my 86 accord and i was wondering how this setup would work. Im going to be pushing over 15psi of boost and i was wondering if the safc with some 550s or bigger injectors with a msd btm to control timming work ok for me. All the tuning would be done with a wideband btw. I cant chip my ecu or anything its a pjo ecu and isnt chippable. I dont really want to convert to obd 1 because im not sure how hard it would be to adapt it to mine so im thinking about going this route. I was using my 450s with a safc for awhile and i like it on 9 psi.

umm if i do go this route what would i have to do to get it to work propperly with that much boost and just a safc? Would just a 3 bar map sensor work fine for it??

o and i know there is better ways but i think i could get it to run pretty good like this. Im not trying to make a race car or anything just a quick 86 accord 4 door lol. The old fuel mangament system the guy had on it was ------- shitty but it seemed to work good for him somehow. It was some 550s with a fmu and a big fuel pump with a btm AND THATS IT! And that was on 22psi! So i know it will atleast be better then his setup lmao.

Toysrme

I'm not gonna flame you. I'm just going to say SAFC's are the most retarded tuning piggyback of all time. It's no big deal if you want to do it with a piggyback, but atleast use an advanced one.

SMT-7 > E-Manage Ultimate> Unichips
SMT-6 > E-Manage > FTC-1

Tom-Guy

You have the vacuum advance/retard distributor still, yes? In this case, an AFC will work fine as a fuel controller. I'd still steer you towards tunable OBD0/OBD1, but it's your car and you aren't going to blow it up with AFC ignition recurve problems - they don't exist unless you have an ECU-controlled distributor.

450/550cc injectors (550 may or may not idle great), 4:1 ratio FMU (verify the ratio for me please), Walbro 255 High Pressure (4:1 FMU will not substantially jack your fuel pressures), check valves/missing link, and AFC will be enough fuel for 400-450 whp. You do not need to worry about changing MAP sensor, but it would be a good idea to tune the damn thing on a wideband and be able to datalog it somehow *cough* dyno w/ tailpipe sniffer *cough*

You will have to do... something... with your vacuum dashpots on the distributor. I forget what turborex did, and don't have any service literature for the old skool stuff like your car at hand. Probably just a check valve type arraingement on one of the dashpots, I think that's what turborex had. Depending on how the distributor deals with timing under pressure, you may or may not need the BTM. No comment at this point.

b20accord

awesome bro thanks! Thats what i wanted to know. Yes the dizzy is vaccum advance.

accordepicenter

i wouldnt check valve the afc... itll have a funky transition from vaccuum to boost. I run my accord 13psi boost on 450s and a btm and safc... i really think having ran this at this high of psi that you really really need better managemant over 10 or so psi. And yes, the timing isnt controlled by the ecu at all, so the msd BTM 5462 actually works quite well. I doubt you need to checkvalve the dashpots on the dizzy though... but i could be wrong. Hasnt been a problem for me without them... In any event, sure, i bet this could be done adam, but it definently wont be the best setup drivability/tunability,or power wise. You might as well sell all that ---- and go obd1 and crome it

Tom-Guy

While a MAP sensor swap allowing him to control fuel properly with the AFC after the stock MAP stops reading past 9.25 psi is going to cause a hell of a lot more complications and driving problems.

I'm right there with you on the "do something else, please convert to OBD0/1," but he said he wanted cheap. The setup I described St00pid on HT used to run. You can probably still find his archived posts back 99-01 about it, or PM the man himself. He was running it on OBD1 cars, but the principle applies...