Originally Posted by mike belben

to make 160 daily on pump gas all motor D, i would run a d16z6 bottom end with pm3 pistons from a DX 1.5L that had been modded for a Y8 head. its going to take a pile of compression, and resisting detonation will be really important, therefore the closed chambers of the Y8 matching the flat tops of the PM3's for me. it will require machine work the make the pistons work, and id probably stack a 5 layer oem headgasket (used pieces will work if not bent up, copperspray between every layer and slip over the dowels, do not re-rivet. you want min .045" piston to head clearance, more if you run a really loose bore. id go atleast .0028 piston to wall, more like .0032ish to free up more power. run drain tubes from the top of the deck down into the oilpain.. made of aluminum and devcon'd to the block. run 8 gasports per piston, thin the top ring on the inside so its a low tension and collapses easier on vaccuum, freeing up FHP. enlarge the existing drainbacks, drill additional ones all the way around the bore.. it wont smoke even with a sloppy cylinder if all the oil collected can drain easy. drill out all the oil feeds to the main bearings, they taper near the top of the feed tube, also enlarge the passage behind the oil filter stud and clean up the filter housing. also, chuck the pistons in the lathe and use a thin radius tipped cutoff tool to put a nice groove between the two compression rings. this will give you a cavity that has to fill with cylinder pressure before the top ring can float. make your intake relief pockets huge, bigger than conventional wisdom says you should. when the valves are open and blocking flow, the pockets will make room for that initial rush to fill into and it'll make power. if you want to get experimental.. look up somander singh.. try his grooves in the Y8 flats of the piston aimed at the plug,, i think they help.

the intake ports, make em big. lots of CC's of fuel sitting in the "waiting room" ready to rush in and see the doctor as soon as the "door" opens. i thin dividers like crazy, flatten floors and enlarge injector slots to add volume without making the overall port much larger. the valvejob should be fully radiused exhaust, thin seat angle, like .040-.050 margin. intakes go 75/65/55/45/35, leave the angles sharp except just barely break the edges on the throat to 75 and 75 to 65 edge.. just a hair with a loose sandpaper strip and tranny fluid. make the seat super thin, like .030-.035.. youll get more pounds per square inch of sealing pressure by reducing the seat area.

so far, all free. so you could save your money for a crower 3 and springs. only cam id spend the $$ on.

thats my whole bag of tricks.. should pull 160 no problem.

Originally Posted by ichbinsobose

how is this for tuning for mpg

out of boost I tuned to the leanest it would go without popping misssfires and hesitation
then I added 2 - 3 * of timing
the end
(oh, and it failed to help much lol)

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis

There is no use for a Honda KS, the are only used to trim ignition at cruise for emissions purposes + the ECU promptly ignores the KS when WOT, under high load, or above 5K rpms.