HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum

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- Engine Management (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/engine-management-10/)

- - LC-1 Wiring (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/engine-management-10/lc-1-wiring-64499/)

How're you guys wiring up your LC-1s in car? I'm looking to have this setup be fairly mobile as it'll be used on a far number of cars, just looking for some setups to get ideas from. Thanks.

I have my power and green and white grounds on a cig lighter plug and then I add a piece of wire for the blue ground and it can ground anywhere in the car. SO you only have to ground 1 wire and plug in the cig part and you are rolling.

Yeah, not a bad idea. I've read that it's better to go straight off the battery , so current draw throughout the car doesn't throw off your readings.Have either of you tested this out at all? If it's not worth it, the cig lighter is a much easier method of doing things.

I was also thinking of using a long set of alligator clips with the appropriate wires, then the one extra for the blue ground that I could bolt anywhere in the car.

i made a harness out of pc power plugs that tap into a23 and a26 for the grounds and d1 and d14 for the power and analog 1. Easy to do, just splice a power plug into each of the cars your gonna tune and leave it in there. When i need to hook it up, all i do is plug it in! couldnt be happier with the LC-1

Quote:

Originally Posted by sohcpwr

Someone on here suggested using the O2 heater + (a6) for the power , but when I did that it blew the fuse right away. Running the power off D1 would be ok unless you have a permanent setup. D1 has power at all times. It's not a good idea to startup your car cold when the O2 is already heated. Not to mention that you'd have that o2 heater running 24/7. And with all the heat sinking off to the cold exhaust pipes, that circuit will definately get overworked.

hmmm, Its not perminant in any of our cars. But i have put the wideband in, and started my car before it was warmed up. You dont recommend this? Which pin should i tap into instead?

According to the LC-1 manual, the LC-1 shouldn't be powered up very long b4 the car is started. When the car is first started it can have some moisture and cool air inside that when hits the hot O2 sensor, can really screw it up. Same reason you don't pour a bucket of cold water onto a 200 degree engine block...

better yet, here's a quote:

Quote:

It is NOT a good idea to connect the LC-1 permanently to 12V and switch it
on with a separate switch before the vehicle is started. Depending on the climate
and the sensor position in the exhaust, condensation water can form in the
- 8 -
exhaust pipes. This condensation water could then be blown by the exhaust
stream against the hot sensor when the car is started. The resulting heat shock
can permanently damage the sensor.

ya, and i just noticed something else in there...

Quote:

WHEN INSTALLED IN THE EXHAUST, THE OXYGEN SENSOR
MUST BE CONNECTED AND OPERATING WITH THE LC-1
WHENEVER THE CAR IS RUNNING. AN UN-POWERED OXYGEN
SENSOR WILL BE DAMAGED WHEN EXPOSED TO EXHAUST GAS.

I've been running my sensor unpowered for almost a month now... anyone think it might be fucked?

yea i saw that you shouldnt start the car with the sensor not hooked up to the controller, but i guess i skipped over the part about perminant 12V. What do they want you to do then? Tap into key on power instead of constant? I dont get how thats different than turning it on with a switch

Quote:

Originally Posted by sohcpwr

It kinda sounds like that's meant for the HMT community... They wanna prevent the "woops, forgot to flip the switch..." situation.