Whitish on the ground strap is because your engine burns oil.

You need to read the ceramic; tip, middle, base; those regions correspond to idle, cruise, WOT. Sometimes it's hard to get light down in the well, those $25 "Doctor Mom" 4X magnification otoscopes on eBay are really handy.

You want stoich (or leaner for mpg) at idle up to -10 or -8 in/Hg. 13.5-13:1 from that point until atmospheric. Once in boost drop it within 2-3 psi to 12.5-12:1, and by the time you are 5-6 psi a flat 12:1 will do you fine for most street cars. Typically past 11.5:1 doesn't cool the chamber any further, but some small bore D-series setups or any aircooled or the Scoobies like it richer under more boost.


It's hard to get good plug pics. Seriously consider tossing them on a flatbed scanner and posting 2048X1600 resolution pictures for me.

 

If you are ever in the extreme southern part of indiana...look me up. I'm tuning mine on my own and pretty much doing what I read on the internuts.

 

Giving you the ten minute lecture works best face to face, but you only get good at it by looking at a hundred or so sets of plugs.

 

the rest looks like the ground strap.. to me it just doesnt look normal, it looks lighter, which i associate with lean, and they should be darker at those afr's right? maybe ill post one of the wacked out log files

 

JD's right, the ground strap has nothing to do with the afr values. If anything, the annealing band left on the strap will tell you whether or not you need a step colder or hotter plug. The section of porcelain that's normally visible usually stays pretty white if the plug is working the way it's supposed to, if anything they tend to discolor a bit depending on fuel types and additives or have pepper spots on them if there's any detonation. The base of the porcelain in the well is what tells you the WOT story, which should have a nice dark tan to chocolate color depending on boost and afr's. Search for plug reading in this section, I posted up a lot of info on it a while ago.