Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Finally got around to installing my wideband into my new teg yesterday. Finally got everything working so I can do some tuning when my cams come in. :y

Turbo timer serves as an A/F display. Calibration button and status LED for the LC-1.
[img width=400]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p0332b2682d37852d82616c5005fc4dad/eeca4df0.jpg[/img]

Rats nest. Extension harness with a PC power plug used to connect the wideband controller to the ECU.
[img width=400]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p89310279c906d57e49b59783f0b3da4d/eeca4d93.jpg[/img][img width=400]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/pbcf11ecb95762c862ec493602f9122ce/eeca4d58.jpg[/img]

ECU J12 and J1 are connected to switches.
[img width=400]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p08299183e95ef396b7b9984e35f6f8f0/eeca4d19.jpg[/img]


Forgot to mention,. Thanks to my friend J for helping with the install and motivating my ass.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

mmm, What type of input does the Timer take to serve as a WBo2 display? 0-5v and know the Linear o2 Graph to make it AFRs?

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

You can program either of the analog outputs on the LC-1 to whatever linear slope you desire. You can also program the voltage to A/.F ratio correlation on the turbo timer. I don't use the turbo timer display for tuning. It is setup for monitoring only. When I'm tuning I datalog through the ECU with the other analog out programmed to Innovates factory 0-5V settings. When I'm done tuning I reprogram the output to the ECM to represent the stock O2 sensor so that I can enable closed loop.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Yeah, what he said.

With "single digit" voltages, does the TT give you two decimal places on the voltage readout? In that case, you could set it up to display to a tenth of an AFR, if you ignore decimal placement.

I like your wiring, you did a good job.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Thanks JD. ;D

The voltage set range on the A/F points is in 0.05 increments. So I think that it could be setup to be pretty accurate to a tenth of an A/F. Unfortunately I haven't sat down and hashed out the math to set the TT up perfectly.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

The only LC-1 I have touched friend itself and acted all fucked up. I really, really, really - have I mentioned really? - liked the way it was put together, the size and cable packaging, and how Logworks interfaced it with my laptop. I really liked the price. But... it fried itself, and according to a perusal of their forums that happens quite a lot.

Keep me updated on how yours works for you, please? If Innovate gets the bugs worked out of the damn thing I'll buy ten of them, and blow an eskimo left handed midget ninja albino out of gratitude. Thanks.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

This is the second car that this setup has been installed in. I really love the flexibility and unobtrusive packaging that this unit offers. I have read about the analog outputs getting fried, but I think that they have had that problem solved for a while now. Check the forum, I'm pretty sure that Klaus has already addressed the cause of the failures.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Mine was the same way. I really like it at first. really simple. then it started acting upo, and i spent far too much time trying to rewire it to get it to work. Completely stopped working, so i ponied up the extra $150 and got an lm1 instead

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Klaus posted it is fixed. There are still complaints to the contrary.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

my lc-1 died the second day i had it. i sent it in for a warrantied replacement and its been fine ever since

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Hopefully I don't have any problems. My analog and system grounds are tapped into the ECUs pin A26, My heater ground is tapped into the ECUs pin A23. I ran this setup in my other teg for about 3 months.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Well, they backordered the shits for almost a full month, most likely a full rework so I am hoping. Lucklily, I have only had one LC-1 personally go bad (for a customer)...mine runs minty fresh and so have all the others I have installed and sold (from what I know)

Nice work on the wiring!

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Sweet, good to hear.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Got my LC-1 from chris 1500 miles logged so far and havn'et had any MAJOR issues with it yet.
I also use the same TT, I'm not actually convinced you can use it as a WBo2 gauge.
The TT is programed to run from 0-1volts. But you can look at it in voltage which reads X.XX so if you know your volts at your target AFR then your good.
I have my LC-1 hooked up to a 3 position switch so i can toggle between NB and WB, and switching the TT from NB to WB the read will be 10.0AFR all the time because it's still reading the 0-1voltage table inside the TT no matter how i program the LC-1 is doesn't mater unless i go back the the narrow setting then i runs in NB. Either way nice work, if you do ever figure out the TT to work as a WB lt me know,

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

I just got my lc-1 a couple weeks ago, bought it from a local turbo shop used (off their drag car). I bought the controller, xd1 gauge and a new sensor to go with it. It is a great unit but the narrowband output has given me some trouble, no problems with the wideband output (0-5v). All in all its a awesome unit...

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

The timer has has several, 6 I think, set points in which you can set the voltage and A/F to whatever you want. Basically you can set up a voltage A/f slope in the timer to match you wideband controller's output. Since you can program the LC-1 to for whatever slope you desire then I don't see why it can't be used as a fairly accurate indicator. I checked its accuracy yesterday with the digital output on the LC-1 and it seems to be very close. I'll post up some pics later tonight.

Idle in open loop.
[img width=500]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid207/pf1c7012e8d0300834f14cb3c7ee44ee3/eec04e95.jpg[/img]


Digging into it a little.
[img width=500]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid207/p01922f6b198d6435a8d74bfde3cdaad7/eec059d4.jpg[/img]

Off the throttle on coastdown.
[img width=700]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid207/p0792a28415afbbf68d9c068fe17290d6/eec05a51.jpg[/img]
Timer only goes to 20 so that's why the LC-1 reads 20.8 and the timer only reads 20.

Again I don't tune off of this thing. I only use it to monitor, just like any other guage.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

how do you change the settings on the timer? I'm going to have to look and see if i still have the paper work for it, i don't rememebr seeing anything about different setting for the slope, but then again i never looked because i didn't know it was an option.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

Use the up and down on the toggle button switch thingy to select what mode you want to work with. Press the switch to the right until the display flashes between two fifferent numbers. One number will be the set point. The other number will be the parameter that you can adjust.

Example: Select the O2 voltage display mode. Push the switch to the right and hold until the numbers flash. This will put you into the programming mode so you can adjust the voltage that you want to correspond to the A/F set point.
I.E. Display flashes between 10.0 and 980. 10.0 is the A/F set point and 980 is the number of millivolts, or 0.980 V, that the controller sees as 10.0:1 A/F.
Once you are in the programming mode you can push the button up or down to select your voltage in 5 millivolt increments.
Now you can scroll left to the other A/F set points nad set your corresponging voltages.
You can also change the A/F set points the same way by scrolling up to the A/F display mode and entering the programming mode.
To exit the programming mode push and hold the button to the left until the display returns to its normal mode. If you hold too long it will turn the timer off, the display will read: OFF.

All of the functions on the timer are programmed this way. You can change the battery voltage warning point and also how long the timer keeps the engine running after the key is turned off.

The math to set it up accirately isn't too difficult. It can be done with some logical deduction and using a proportional equation. I'm sure one of the math buffs out there can figure out the correct equation but I did it semi ghetto.

Enjoy. ;D

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

i'll have to give it a try this weekend.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

What brand is that TT?

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

apex-i, nice job! :)

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

I used to wire my wideband like this and the wideband itself displays the right stuff, but any time I datalogged in an ECU program(crome or uberdata) the values at WOT would be insanely off. Cruising would be fine, but WOT was horribly off(1-1.5AFR off). I'd just suggest monitoring that. You may need to have the wiring go straight to the battery.

Otherwise I'm impressed with the accuracy of the turbo timer linking up with log works. Looks great.

Re: Installed the LC-1 in my Teg yesterday.
 

It doesn't seem to be off at WOT. The only way I have to verify this my ass and my ears. I would think that if it was reding that far off that the engine would be sputtering and pinging at WOT since my A/F on the high end is around 13.0-13.3. That's kinda lean but this is also NA. :-X


I would like to get to a dyno soon to check its accuracy and see what I'm laying down with the ITR cams. :y