Injectors ?
 

Has anyone here used xencrons bosch 1000cc yet? Im debaiting on ditching the PTE880 W/ Resistor box for these b/c they werent stable enough for me under light load. (as i was warned they would be without a driver) basicly im looking for a small review on tunablily / daily drivablity with these injectors as well as good idle properties. thx HMT

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I have the New Bosch 1000cc injectors and I love them. Best investment by far in my turbo car. I have Skunk2 Pro1 cams and they are notorious for a horable idle. My car idles like stock. Buy them you wont regret it. I sold a single cam turbo kit just to buy them.. I dont have many miles on my engine yet but the car doesnt act funny at all.

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are you tuning the car youself? if so what program i noticed that with ectune i could get the car to run cleaner over all but i still had the extream richness under light load.

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I am not tuning my car myself. But my car is running on ectune pro :y

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did you install the injectors yourself how's fitment?

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Yes I did it, was just like installing stock ones, just lube the O rings and your good to go. Wireing was very simple too.

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thanx for the input any other reviews from a self tuner using these injectors compaired to others they have used.

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I've never had a problem getting a stock idle out of Precision 880/1000, but some cars do require you to play with the battery comp tables.

Cams can be wierd. I would say 1/3rd of the 404 cammed LS I tune idle like stock, or so quietly no one knows they are cammed. The rest lump lightly, and every so often one will beat the ground. A mild overlap like on Pro1 isn't anything compared to 404. Not meaning to be disagreeable, sir, but that's how it's been for me.

There's not any real difference in how a tradition injector vs one of those Bosch units idles or makes near-peak power. However, the Bosch unit's atomization is great, I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't save the price difference in mpg within 4-6 months of operation.

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thanks thats along the line of reviews i was looking for im not a big fan of RC's b/c a freind of mine had problems with those injectors X2 but i wanna ditch the resistor box even though it play's a great anti theift role. i was researching yesterday i cam accross jeff evans web page he said they were like night and day over other injectors he used. i think im gunna end up using them.

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I think some people get confused by injector offset (it takes bigger injectors longer to open up) and battery compensation tables (injectors open at different rates based on what voltage they are operated at... there can be a BIG difference between idle with the headlights and fans on and with them off). The Bosch injectors are apparently really really forgiving in these areas, so if you don't want a PITA they sound like the ticket.

I like *some* RC injectors. The high-Z RC injectors (available up to 750cc) are really easy to work with, and they atomize well as a lot of cars report very good fuel efficiency with them. The low-Z RC injectors are just difficult, and very hard to deal with especially once you get to 1000cc or larger units. I can tune them but they *do* have idle problems and generally waste time trying to get them behave that shouldn't have to be spent.

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i could get a decent idle at like 13.2 but my part throttal like 20-15 hgin just is horrible either pig rich or really lean. people were telling me with a resistor box i get an un consistant voltage. im still newb at tuning my self but with my 450 i got the car to run how i wanted.

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People are silly. You get the same voltage consistency with or without a resistor box.

Sounds like you had some funky injectors. I see that a bit with the overbored stock injectors. It is not unusual to have to idle the bigger RCs at 13.5-13.8:1, but most everything else on the market should be tunable to the average intelligent person. If you got through one 450cc tune you should be able to do 1000cc with a small amount of extra effort.

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thanks for the adivice i dont really wanna give up on them its a new year mabey ill try to stick with them since the cars down right now. i know i need to spend more time on battery offsets everyewere else the car ran great it was just idle and high vacume that was a PIA

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im new to tuning but i havent had much trouble tuning my precision 1000cc i did have to by a drive but now that i have that i can even get it lean at idle all im having trouble with is battery offset...well not really trouble havent even got around to messing with it yet but im sure when i get it set it will run great all im not sure about is there a way to control the voltage to be able to tune

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they way i set my voltage was to hook up a battery booster and turn it on full voltage. ajust battery offset to on the highest voltage to run the same then unplug the alt and as voltage drops tune out your tables till it runs the same. im not having problem with the overall tune its just low vacume is inconsistant

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Voltage should drop when you turn on your headlights (high beams) and cut on your blower motor. Nothing is going to keep AFRs from fluctuating when the system is suddenly un/loaded, but pay attention to voltage and AFR with everything off vs voltage and AFR with everything on (after a couple seconds so everything stabilizes).

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damn JD you spit out in 10 words what i said in a full paragraph

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The beauty of the Bosch 1000s (Injector Dynamics now) is that they are MATCHED SETS.

What does that mean exactly?

Say a company like Precision or RC buys 100 of the injector they are going to use to make there low imp 1000s. They flow them on a test bench using mineral spirits or some other calibrated test fluid at a fixed "max" duty cycle, say 85% duty cycle at 3 bar (43.5 psi). Out of those 100 injectors, they match them in sets of 4, 6 or 8 (depending on what motor) based on a flow number at one duty cycle. But does your car always run at this one static figure? No, of course not, injectors are "DYNAMIC"

The injector dynamics injectors are flow matched at a number of different pulsewidths and pressures. So the sets that are put together flow the same at 2ms, and the flow the same at 4 ms, 6ms, 8ms, 10ms...etc.

Injectors are most "finicky" at low pulsewidths and at very high pulsewidths. This is why there are varied opinions and reports about getting sets to idle correctly...some probably are closely enough matched to not see a difference where some sets can be off by probably around 10-15% between cylinders (at idle) and maybe at WOT.

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I have dsm 450's and I was worried about the difficulty in tuning them as I have heard they can give you trouble , I am using neptune RTP and suprisingly I got them to behave pretty good idle 14.5 - 14.8 a toperating tempm warm up around 13.8 and they keep a steady AFR across the map , I didnt have to adjust the battery offsets I am just using the RTP's default offsets :| why is it that I didnt have to adjust them to get a nice idle?

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Because they are not big enough to make trouble.

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Neptune RTPs battery tables are different than the rest I guess...they have always seemed to work well regardless of which injector was being used. i dont know if that is due to the routines he uses or what...it was only recently that you have been able to edit them after much begging and pleading.

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neptune + ballla statis