AFR's vs rpm... And timing
04-01-2008, 12:44 AM
#14
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 32
Re: AFR's vs rpm... And timing
check out http://www.viatrack.ca/ for a cheap knock detection solution i have one seems to work well Wes
04-06-2008, 03:23 AM
#15
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 724
Re: AFR's vs rpm... And timing
does the knock light actually work? i posted up about it a while back (a year or more now) and no one seemed to have much of an answer for me. im about to start building my ls crx again and im looking to do it right this time instead of haggard *** half nigrig buncha ----.
04-06-2008, 03:53 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: AFR's vs rpm... And timing
Dude if the cars not getting hot, like in boost ect's doen't jump up over 205 or so your timinmg is probably ok. I'd say your base timing is just off somehow and your fine..Most of the cars ive tuned come to me with some chinese balancer pulley or something with no timing marks so I have no way of setting the base timing. I just tune the car and adjusting to where it needs to be.
As far as afr 10 in boost are rich but it's not that critical. On a few really wore out engines Ive had to richen them up that much in boost at high rpm and full boost just to keep them from knocking.
As far as afr 10 in boost are rich but it's not that critical. On a few really wore out engines Ive had to richen them up that much in boost at high rpm and full boost just to keep them from knocking.
04-09-2008, 10:58 AM
#17
0.5 BAR
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 71
Re: AFR's vs rpm... And timing
I just got the car back in my garage now, so I'll go doublecheck basetiming. And I remember now that I was thinking about milling the head 1mm when I did the rebuild to bump compression, but I cant remember if I ended up doing it or not. More compression = more retard, right?
I have never heard knock myself, but as I understand knock sounds different from engine to engine. I dont think I would trust a simple light that claims it detects all knock from every motor. That just doesnt sound right to me.
Dont know my EGT's, only thing I know is that the manifold started to get red in the end of the run... I just dont have the money for an egt gauge now.
Edit:
Just saw now that you were talking about eCt's
On the dyno, it would overheat a little (with the tiny, stock radiator) after doing a couple of wot pulls in a row, I saw 215 once. On the road with lots of air its rock solid at 195.
I have never heard knock myself, but as I understand knock sounds different from engine to engine. I dont think I would trust a simple light that claims it detects all knock from every motor. That just doesnt sound right to me.
Dont know my EGT's, only thing I know is that the manifold started to get red in the end of the run... I just dont have the money for an egt gauge now.
Edit:
Just saw now that you were talking about eCt's
On the dyno, it would overheat a little (with the tiny, stock radiator) after doing a couple of wot pulls in a row, I saw 215 once. On the road with lots of air its rock solid at 195.
05-21-2008, 04:33 PM
#18
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 71
Re: AFR's vs rpm... And timing
Okey, now I dont know what the hell is going on here.
Triple checked base timing - good
Checked compression - good
Measured my head - close to stock specs (I have close to stock compression)
Freelog reads the same timing advance as the tables in the crome bin
So I thought ---- it and went to a trackday at a local circuit track. My manifold cracked after about 40 minutes of track time. Not at the welds, but the pipe itself (2mm walls, mild steel). I welded it up and made some braces and went to another trackday, and my manifold cracked again at another place. The collector has also started deforming, looks like the wall is made of something really soft and just gives in for the pressure. So I guess my EGT are sky high (as expected with 11 degrees timing @ 11psi).
So today I made a det can and tried to run the timing from my basemap (16 degrees at 11 psi, should be pretty conservative). I couldn't hear any detonation during a WOT 3rd gear pull (turned off the ignition right before rev limit), but when I checked my plugs it was gray and there were lots of small greyish dots on it. Guess my det can sucks, lol. So went back to the old map with 11 degrees @ 11psi and did a 3rd gear pull, and my plugs still looks greyish, but without the dots. My wideband reads pig rich (in the 10s when in boost), and the wideband at the tuner had the same reading.
So, anyone know whats going on, and how to get a car thats running as it should?
Triple checked base timing - good
Checked compression - good
Measured my head - close to stock specs (I have close to stock compression)
Freelog reads the same timing advance as the tables in the crome bin
So I thought ---- it and went to a trackday at a local circuit track. My manifold cracked after about 40 minutes of track time. Not at the welds, but the pipe itself (2mm walls, mild steel). I welded it up and made some braces and went to another trackday, and my manifold cracked again at another place. The collector has also started deforming, looks like the wall is made of something really soft and just gives in for the pressure. So I guess my EGT are sky high (as expected with 11 degrees timing @ 11psi).
So today I made a det can and tried to run the timing from my basemap (16 degrees at 11 psi, should be pretty conservative). I couldn't hear any detonation during a WOT 3rd gear pull (turned off the ignition right before rev limit), but when I checked my plugs it was gray and there were lots of small greyish dots on it. Guess my det can sucks, lol. So went back to the old map with 11 degrees @ 11psi and did a 3rd gear pull, and my plugs still looks greyish, but without the dots. My wideband reads pig rich (in the 10s when in boost), and the wideband at the tuner had the same reading.
So, anyone know whats going on, and how to get a car thats running as it should?
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