Jon Black

I have been considering buying a ZC for my 1991 CRX Si. All the local guys that I know that have done this say that they wouldnt do it again, they would build the bottom end in the D16A6 over the ZC.

My questions are:

1. What do you all think of this consensus?
2. Are there "off the shelf" built bottom ends for the D16A6?

My goals are low 14s high 13s. I plan to use FI, have a ZEX kit now and later plan to build a Home Made Turbo with FMIC. I would like to build something that I wont blow up, and something that I will not wish I have gone another route.

I have considered the B16, but I think overall it is cost prohibitive. Anybody got a good argument to convice me to buy a B16?

Thanks guys
Jon Black

92CivicCx

JG makes bottom ends that rock but spendy as hell

jg engine dynimics ( i cant spell)

HMT-Admin

let me rephrase that for you..

JG =
Just Garbage

The a6 and ZC have pretty much the exact same bottom ends, same crank, same rod stroke ratio. The only difference is the heads. Its definatly harder to get aftermarket support for the DOHC zc. But if you are trying to hit 13's. you can easily do that with either motor. Your goals are not very high, and I honestly wouldnt worry about which motor you pick. Both will do just fine.

Jeff

If you are specificly looking for ZC bottom end parts, look at www.theoldone.com for roller wave pistons, any c/r and Eagle rods.

Jon Black

Well, I already have the D16A6, and my logic was that if I was going to spend $1000 to put a ZC in my car, that I might just build the D16 block up instead. That way if I wanted to do anything serious in the future (boostwise) I would have a little stronger platform.

Plus I have some sort of aftermarket cam that I could use. And, it seems more rational to buy just one cam or one cam gear than the 2 that the ZC would require. I just havent heard anyone "recommend" the ZC swap. They say it does give you an increase over the D16 but if they had to do it over they would do it differently.

Anybody else got info to add?

Thanks
Jon Black

shortyz

A6 parts are cheaper. also on zc u gotta take out cams to take the head off..

u can afford to blow up d16's montly really..

Xgenturbo

Yeah man stick with the A6, thats what i have in my 91 civic and i'm putting a turbo on that, with fuel managment, i'm gonna be running stock pistons and rods, hopefully nothing will blow up under 7psi, and if it does then oh well, i only paid a buddy 300$ for the engine and tranny, i'm lookng to be doing high 13's or low 14's, plus i have a shot at a b18 from a 90 integra, for $50, hehe,YES YOU HEARD ME (FIFTY DOLLARS) it starts runs and everything, it has over 400 000 kilomiters on it tho, so it needs a rebuild, but thats the next engine i will be building up if i get it.

HMT-Admin

A6 parts are not cheaper, and the ZC is more power than a A6. The head flows alot more air. Intake and exhaust valves are alot larger. I personally like working with Dohc platforms rather than single cams.

Jeff

Steven Hung

Isn't the D16A6 so much easier to find and cheaper? I saw an ad for a D16A6 for $200. Transmission is not included. I have a D16A6 with 30k miles sitting in my garage. The other D16A6 is in my CRX Si with 160k miles. I am going to rebuild the fresher engine. It is not going to be cheap. My original budget for the engine rebuild is $2500 and it is not enough. Endyn rebuild head is $895. Stock values are $14.50 and spring and titanium retainer kit is $395. That leave only $1000 for the bottom. $300 for Endyn block pin/posting. Block hot tank, 20 bore over and deck is about $200 at a local shop. Eagle rods is $375. Wiseco Piston is another $400. ARP head studs is $125. Metal head gasket is $100. I have not check prices on journals, bearing and crankshaft balancing and polishing. This doesn't include water pump, oil pump, belts, miscellaneous gasket, etc.

HMT-Admin

The actual engine itself, yes will be cheaper than a ZC. Since their is an abundence of them.. I have 3 right now all for sale..