Xgenturbo

Well I was told by someone that it would be fine to use a standard size medium(green) bearing on the connecting rods, well my build went good, I got the engine fired up for the first time today.
The engine runs but now I have that ------- clanking sound from the bottom end, tomorrow I'm going to pull the oil pan and the cradle and read the rods and crank to see what exact bearings I need. then I'll take a bus to honda and get the right parts. ---- this is gonna cost me an arm and a leg. oh well lesson learned.

accordepicenter

you didnt spec it out with plastigauge? Somtimes the "green" bearings will work, but it all has to be in spec, ideally you should spec out each bearing on each rod and main

Edit: your lucky you didnt spin a bearing... that woulda really messed up stuff

Xgenturbo

no didnt spin one since this is the motor I just rebuild from ground up and threw in, the noise was there rignt from when I started it. oh well, looks like I gotta go find me some bearings tomorrow.

Plastiguage is only used to determine if an existing bearings should be replaced on an old motor, what I need to do is read the crank, read the rod and get the proper color bearing.

accordepicenter

You use it to spec out new bearings as well. Always, if you replace bearings, plastigauge them, even if they are the right color. You also need the big end size of the rod (stamped across the big end near the rod bolt where the cap meets the rod) to help determine what size bearing you need.

StanB

When I was repairing my D16Z6 a parts store clerk at a Honda dealership told me I could use the green bearings on all rods because the difference is insignificant. Luckily I did not. If that was true why didn't the manufacturer installed all green bearings . I found out they don't stock the other colors and that could be why he recommended all green . It might work in some engines but I would never recommend it.

BoosTedZSix

if you started it up and you heard clanking. you definatly have rod knock. which probably spun a bearing and messed up the rod and the crank. so if you havent taken it apart already i wouldnt just go buy bearings to see whats going on. even if it was a brand new motor you built from the ground up doesnt mean you cant spin a bearing when you first start it up

Ravage70

u fucked ur crank guaranteed if u had a real knock
while ur at honda get the list price for a crank also

HMT-Admin

Always..... Always plastigauge your bottom end if you are replacing your rods, crank or putting in a new set of bearings.

The only time you can kinda look the other way is if you replace every bearing with a brand new one that is the exact same on each journal. Remember some halfs can be a green/yellow or brown/green combo. Thats why its important to see what comes out of the
engine and keep them together.

If your ---- is knocking right from the getgo.. eh, thats ugly. Just hope that journal is ok, dont expect it to last to long

d16u7nh

two questions: 1) what is the name of tool that takes off the bottom rod cap. they are a bitch to take off. any help


2) since my crank was shaved and lightened it has the mark 10/10 on it. my buddy says that the crank has been balanced 10 over 10. so im not that wooried about that as much but about how do i figure what size bearings. i was given .025 but they seemed to tight? how do i measure the crank for the right bearing.

and yes i know this should be in a differant forum. but since this engine spun a bearing i felt it ok.

scottsi

i took engines in wyotech, but lemme get this straight for when i rebuild my vg30dett, i dont wanna spin the crank and fuckup my eagle rods... so you measure the crank with a micrometer on each journal, record all of that, check it all with spec, if its in spec then i use the regular size rod bearings.. then i put them in with plastiguage, torque it, check it to spec again, and if everything is in spec, then its good to go? thats how you do it right?