NBLKID

Well im gunna try pullen the whole stud out with an allen key again, the only thing im worried about is if Im going to have to take all the studs out and start over, or if I can just pull that stud out and get a new nut and then torque it back donwn and then torque the rest of the studs that arent finished yet....

con

take a smaller sized 12 point socket 1/2 drive, if its 13 mm use 12 and smash it on ------ hard untill its seated the whole way, it will come out. I do this at work but I use snap on sockets so I hope your socket doesnt split.

fork

DON"T DO THAT

con

you wondn't drill out a case hardend steel stud in a resessed aluminum hole were shavingins would go in the cranck case? What could go wrong

NotPhilTran

I had just run into a simular situation with arp.

I was torquring down my head, and i noticed i was missing my 12point nut

THE CORRECT SOCKET SIZE TO USE IS 1/2. it is a STANDARD socket.

anways, i call arp, and they sent me an arp nut for free, and i asked to overnight it to me.

they didnt give me a total, well the next day, there is a nice package on my door step.. 26 dollar shipping!!1
WOW THEY FUCKED ME

anways.


12point 1/2 inch socket DEEP

use it. not metric.

rudebwoy

yep! I installed arp studs on too different b series, and it was 12 piont 1/2 deepwell sockets

fork

Well then I guess that was simple enough, this dipshit used the wrong size socket. I thought he could have figured that out on his own being that he could hold the nut in his hand and put it in the socket. I guess we should have started with righty tighty lefty loosey

baldur

Shows what you know. It's a very good idea to countersink the threads in the block, as in remove the top 5mm or so, this will reduce deck distortion.

MikeJ-2009

I would never ever ever never ever touch my motor with a drill.




Never. They don't make arp studs with modifications in mind anyway.

baldur

Oh they don't make Honda motors with turbos in mind either and look where we are...