88dx

Dont be a ----- you have to hit at least 400+ with all those parts

mike saunders

I really, really hope that's not aluminized mild steel.

All stock turbo systems I've seen use only aluminum, EPDM rubber, silicone, stainless, or ABS plastic through the airstream from the intake, through the turbo, IC and up to the throttle body. You can even use PVC in a pinch on the cold side, but painted black so it doesn't look too ghetto.

The reason mild steel isn't used in stock systems is because there's the real danger of having the inside of the intake piping -- the inside of which is exposed to extremes of humidity from the intake air -- start to corrode and flake off. Not so nice when it goes through the IC and then eventually into the turbo. Even though mild steel is cheaper, no manufacturer wants to replace a $1,000 turbo because $3 worth of pipe failed.

I'd consider switching to aluminum or stainless if you're planning on keeping the car for more than a few years. If not, then ---- it. Let the next guy worry about it....

MikeJ-2009

We're not manufacturers and we don't run $1000 turbos.

accordepicenter

nothing wrong with using mild steel, ive never heard of anybody wasting a motor a little rust in their chargepipes . Mild steel for charge piping is gonna help you alot more than aluminum will because aluminum conducts soo much heat its gonna bring your charge temps considerably higher than if you just had mild steel piping. Stainless is the best bet, not nearly the heat conductivity of mild or aluminum.

mike saunders

It happens. Most ghetto turbos give out before the intake pipes corrode, but mild steel will flake and eventually work its way into the turbo...Like I said: If you're not keeping the car for more than a couple of years, then let the next guy worry about it. And I'm sure someone will pipe up and say"Dude, I've been using mild steel for X years and my turbo is still fine..." That's beautiful. You get a cookie. I'd rather have peace of mind by using all stainless.

Aluminum is fine for the lower charge pipes -- in fact, it's less resistant to heat soak than heavy stainless -- but shouldn't be used for anything that crosses into the engine bay. Then, stainless or silicone is a better bet.

catch.can

My shop is at my parents house in Battle ground,wa (near vancouver,wa) but i live in oak harbor,wa which is where the rex is, its near everette and seattle

Mike Saunders-
Well im tapped out so stainless charge piping wont work, i have money, but i also have a kid on the way.So shel have to do, im still waiting on a few more parts and trying to find a bare gsr block in wa/or so that i can build that and not waste my perfectly good type r block.

catch.can

Also, the NW crew needs to have a meet, for the last few years ive been stationed in florida so i havn't gotten to get together with anyone, now that i live up here id like to meet the NW crew.

LSD Motorsports

How much can you afford to lose? Not that i would like to take away from the stealth shuttle fund, but the guys who work here with me could use some new welding masks, so please dont assume things or claim things. I spent quite sometime making that manifold here and welding a logo in a manifold is fine by me. As far as the oil drain goes, its not a gaping waterfall down, but it definately isnt level or upstream. We bolted a Turbo up to it before it shipped out.

On a positive note...
Everything is looking good dan. Hope you find that gsr block soon man. Cant wait to see this thing run.

hotrex

i will vouch i definately didnt make that mani, although i did start the trend of tagging the mani with the torch. ------.

i dont do that anymore btw.

neuspeedescort

im going to be running a 1000 turbo in the cooper car. but all my pipes will be stainless or aluminum. an i am no manufature that is for sure!

NEUMAN