Scott-EP

when you have your ac system worked on they only have to make it get 40* colder than the ambient air temp. so on an older system that the average shop works on dont expect more than 50* out of the vents on a 90* day. a good working system can put out 37* at anytime though. but your ---- has to be perfect for that.



just to add, i see a lot of people talking about the "right way". yes, if you have the cash you should change every o-ring in the system, change the oriface tube, flush the system and use the proper oil. but i have done it plenty of times, where i just took the freon out, put a 30 inhg vacumme on the system and then put the proper amount of freon in. i can get 40* out of the vents with that method and thats on an airplane where the systems arent near as efficient as a car systems

Dr.Boost

I'm going to put the thermo on my GF's car right now. Her car blows ------- ice crystals. I'm a ------- eskimo and I get cold in her car. I'll see what hers puts out compared to mine. I'm sure hers is blowing in the ~30* range.

I agree about the "right way". That's like saying you have to build your motor to run boost. Sure, it will be safer to run more boost, but we build $300 turbo kits. Why the ---- would be put $1000 into a motor we plan to blow up and replace for $100? :1 If the o-ring isn't leaking, why the ---- would you replace it? :1
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

jeffescortlx

HMT A/C vacuume pump = vac line from the intake manifold, start the engine and poke a small screw driver into the hose to push and hold down the valve while the engine pulls a vac on the A/C system. Dont need to buy a $60 vac pump when there's allready one under the hood.

Dr.Boost

Does that work?


::runs to the garage::
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

jeffescortlx

The car I did it to is still blowing cold a year later. The engine pull's a vacuume really close to what the real pumps pull anyways.

Scott-EP

well, at idle the intake vacumme is at the level(or close to it) an ac system should be just before a recharge. it should work. it would be kinda hard to make a hose to do it, but im sure it would work

jeffescortlx

I just used a regular hardware store hose (clear). slipped it over the low side and pushed a really small flat head screw driver threw it to hold down the valve to open it.

bitchasscracker

---- man i bought one if those r12 to r134a converter kits and the pieces that it gives you you can only hook up the recharge can to the top tube/bigger one

idiot-stick

I hear what you're saying but its not as simple as that. From my understanding the R12 o-rings arent compatible with the PAG oil or something and can get eaten away. If your ---- is already empty, it's 100x more convenient to go ahead and replace the o-rings just like it's convenient to change your oil pan gasket while you've got it out tapping it. The whole vacuuming out the system removes air and water from the system. You don't want coolant in your engine oil just like you wouldnt want air and water in your refrigerant.

If you just put some stop-leak and fill with r134a, your air will likely work and likely be trouble-free but it would work better with the junk evacuated.

I've built a couple $500 turbo kits but I wouldnt cut corners say on using an FMU instead of a chipped ECU or risk running junkyard injectors or a blocked fuel filter.

Scott-EP

the one it fits is the right one. putting it on the high side would just explode the can. they wouldnt give you a way to connect to the high pressure side